Food, drink, travel and everything in-between

Author: deljones (Page 8 of 9)

Week 6 – 18th to 24th January 2022

Last full week to go…!

NERJA TO EMPURIABRAVA 719 MILES

Miles traveled so far: 2602 miles

Toll costs: 6.70 euros this week

Fuel Costs: 178 euros this week

18th January – Nerja to Roquetas de Mar 83 miles

Today we are on the second day of our journey back to the UK and home. We are not too keen but needs must. After a nice one-night stay in Nerja, we are planning to do one night at Almerimar Marina east of here. They have three parking areas for motorhomes one of which has a great view looking over the marina. The drive east along the coast is wonderful. No wind, at last, clear blue skies and a temperature of 15 degrees. The motorway here is quite high in the hills so the views out to sea are amazing.

Off grid in Roquetas de Mar

An hour or so later we are in Almerimar, however, after speaking with the reception they are full and the only space that they can offer is next to a high concrete wall covered in graffiti. We move on. Hayley finds us a free stop right on the beach in the town of Roquetas de Mar. After a 30 minute drive, we arrive at our destination.

It is so full of motorhomes, there must be over 100 vans here all parked up along the beach.

The number of vans is less dense as you drive further away from the town which we do and eventually, find a spot between two French vans with a perfect side-on view of the sea. Beautiful and FREE!!

We polish off a pile of fruit and soon the bikes are off the back and we are away for a good cycle ride along the promenade. What a lovely day, perfect in fact.

After a good hour or so we return to Jess, put the bikes back on to the back of Jess, grab our beach chairs, some beers and make our way to the water’s edge to take advantage of the late afternoon sun.

19th January – Roquetas de Mar to Palamares 76 miles

Last night was a quiet peaceful night. Just before bed, we saw coming up over the sea, the biggest, fattest moon rise ever. It was stunning.

This morning we are up early and we see an amazing sunrise over the sea. Just in time for breakfast!

Most of our stops have been in campsites where, for a fee of between 15 and 35 euros, you get a pitch to yourself that has an electricity point, facilities to fill up your fresh water tank with water, empty your grey water tank and of course, clean out the chemical toilet. 

Our freshwater tank can hold 100 litres plus 20 for the hot water tank.

The grey water tank, which for those of you who don’t know is the water from your kitchen, bathroom sink, and shower, holds 100 litres.

The chemical toilet is a 20-litre portable cassette tank.

Full van service with Del dealing with the chemical toilet in the background!

If we use all of the above carefully we can manage without a campsite for 2 possibly three days before something needs to be dealt with and in our case, it’s usually the chemical toilet. The chemical toilet is an interesting device. Inside the van’s bathroom, it looks like a normal toilet but under the seat is a box that collects everything. There is a meter on the toilet that tells you when it’s full! Nice. Then it’s Del’s job to take the box out, from the outside, at the back of the van through a lockable flap and take it to the facility in the campsite and empty it, wash it out, and stick a little blue bag inside that disinfects and deodorises the box.

As for the shower, kitchen and bathroom, well it’s just like home, except there is a large 100-litre used water tank under the van which has a lever that is pulled to open a valve on the tank and the grey water just floods out. Most campsites have a grid or drain that you drive over to empty this tank.

Like yesterday we are going ‘off grid’ which means we find a spot, stop and stay overnight. As long as the right tanks are full and empty and the toilet fresh we can do this for possibly up to three days. The van has a solar panel, on the roof to keep the batteries charged so the lights stay on. We have two LPG gas bottles for cooking, heating, keeping warm, and running the fridge freezer.

Tonight’s stop

We find a nice spot right on the beach at Palomares. We stopped here on the way down but at the campsite. It was magic today. The spot was ideal. The weather is just fine, sunny but cool at around 5 pm. We have Jess facing the sea which is calm and just so beautiful to look at. We get our chairs out and just sit in the afternoon sun with a beer, chatting the time away until the chill forces us inside. We get the heating on, close all the blinds, music on, lights down and it’s just perfect. A truly calming and peaceful place to be by the sea.

20th January – Palomares to Mar Menor 81 miles

Our two days ‘off grid’ have been great, our freshwater tank is still just under half full and that’s after washing up dinner and breakfast and two showers last night. Batteries are still full and we always have plenty of gas. Breakfast this morning is bacon and avocado sandwiches. The avocados were from the campsite in Nerja and are without a doubt the best we have ever had. They are large and very hard, but if you leave them for about two or three days they ripen to be the best avos ever!!

A lot of the rural areas around here have traffic calming ’speed humps’ which are usually well signposted and well marked on the road, however not all of them. With what looked like chewed up concrete Del drives slowly but not slow enough and with a yell from Hayley to slow down or stop it was too late as Jess is bumped violently over the speed hump, so violently that the contents of the van shifted and some items in the kitchen area were thrown up so much that they crashed down onto the glass that covers the hob. The whole van felt like it had been dropped from a great height, a terrifying experience. It was so bad the fridge had panicked and an alarm started beeping that we had never heard. Del continued to drive slowly and carefully until we could get to a service area or anywhere to park up to check that the van was ok.

“What’s under here then?”

A good long inspection was made under the van and inside to look for any damage. It truly was a very violent and terrifying sensation to feel our home being battered by what looked like just battered concrete but was in fact the highest speed ramp EVER! Also, motorhomes amplify any kind of lump and bump on the road, so if you are not used to hearing or feeling it then it can feel frightening.

Today we are doing a 1 and half hour drive to the Mar Menor to a campsite right next to a Spanish airforce base. Not as bad as it sounds. This is where the Spanish equivalent of the Red Arrows (Eagle Patrol) train.

All-day flight training next to the camp!

Our pitch is excellent at the Camping Mar Menor campsite In fact this is probably the best site we have been on this trip.

Everything we need is here as well as an excellent restaurant, so after some laundry and a van clean up we get changed and make for the restaurant where we have an exceptional two-hour late lunch, pricey but well worth it, so much so we have decided to do dinner here tomorrow turning a one day, overnight stop into two night!

Tomorrow is bike day. The Mar Menor is quite an impressive area so we will spend tomorrow getting out and about and exploring while watching the jets training as we go.

21st January – Day 2 Mar Menor

Exercise day today. We get the bikes down from the back of the van and set off along first along a wooden constructed pathway that weaves through the nature reserve.

The pathway is built on stilts with useful viewpoints and stops to check out the local wildlife. Soon we are on the main promenade that provides us with a smooth, flat cycle ride for quite a few miles. Turning back we stop for a quick drink before continuing back then past the campsite for another few miles in the opposite direction. The weather is splendid although rain is expected later. In all we cycled about 14 miles in tota, it was great to get out and burn some calories.

Tomorrow we are expecting to be in the province of Valencia in a newish campsite in Alcalà de Xivert in Valencia called Los Olivos.

22nd January – Mar Menor to Alcalà de Xivert 234 miles

It rained last night, as forecast, and we have woken up to quite an angry sky. Thick black clouds are moving in around us. Time to get a move on and move north where the weather is supposed to be a little better. Today’s stop will be in the Valencia area, a good 2 and a half hours north. We leave the campsite after a full service and snake our way around the airport permitter to get to the motorway north.

We like to keep the van well topped up with fuel. You never know when your plans will change so we have rule that once the van is half full, which, is about 45 liters of fuel, we stop and fill up. This normally costs between 45 and 50 odd euros depending on how much the pump price is.

We are half full so time to pull in and get some diesel, and while we are at it we should top up with LPG as the nights are getting colder and we should keep our gas supply full. We pull into a garage outside Valencia, all seems fine. The forecourt attendant does his thing, but what’s this? 70 liters has been dispensed, 100 euros worth. Our tank only holds 90 liters and we are only half full. What’s going on here? We fear that there must be a calibration issue with the pump it’s just impossible that we have the space for so much fuel. There is no fuel on the forecourt so if 70 liters was dispensed, where has it all gone? We filled up yesterday and have driven half a tank’s worth of miles since. It’s a mystery.

We feel that we have been ripped off to the tune of 30 euros, so an hour later after complaining and filling in forms at the filling station we leave feeling well and truly stung and in a foul mood.

Now, what…? After about 5 minutes into our journey, we notice the fuel gauge is saying no fuel, and the reserve light is flashing. We only just filled up, filled up with more than we needed!!! What’s going on? We cautiously drive on and find a spot to park. Del takes a look under the van to find the fuel tank covered in diesel and some drips coming from the tank. A quick clean up and we set off again. After another few miles we pull in, reset the ignition and now the gauge is saying full. That’s more like it. Del gets under the van to check the tank. It’s dry. something very odd has happened here. Did the garage cause some damage? Did the hard knock on the speed hump yesterday do something? We just don’t know.

We always take turns driving and it was Hayley’s turn to do the last hour to Los Olivos. Her driving experience is much much more than Del’s. She’s an excellent driver, however, it’s quite disturbing the amount of middle-aged to elderly men that stare at her when she is behind the wheel. It’s quite intimidating. She is a competent driver…, oh right it’s because she is female…, oh and she’s driving a 3 and a bit tonne motorhome. “she shouldn’t be doing that.” It’s strange to see. We have gone through many old French & Spanish towns with Hayley at the wheel only to be follow-stared at as we pass. It’s an age/generation thing maybe? Odd all the same.

We finally arrive at Los Olivos tired and in a foul mood to be greeted by a nice girl who gives us a comfortable pitch at this lovely campsite that has the best bar and dining room ever seen on a campsite.

Today has been long. Very long. Stressful and not one of the best. Oh well. We cheer ourselves up with a hot shower and a few games of pool and beer or two. Del gets thrashed by Hayley 4 – 1. It’s Saturday night and we are the only people in here.

Del has placed a bunch of paper towels under the tank on the pitch. Let’s see if there is a leak overnight. Smells of diesel inside the van though.

23rd January – Alcalà de Xivert to Torroella de Montgrí 225 miles

We have both had a really bad night’s sleep. Probably the worst yet, and today we have another long trip ahead of us. No fuel drips on the paper towel this morning. The fuel gauge is still showing full, so off we go.

More issues… After driving for two hours the fuel gauge is still showing full. It’s not right, we have used probably a quarter of a tank since yesterday’s disastrous fill-up. Hayley does some maths and we can guess within 10 liters or so how much fuel we have, when we need to stop and how much we should put in.

Today we are heading for the Costa Brava. We like it here. It’s a lovely part of Spain and we are staying at a farm. Apart from the dodgy fuel gauge, there is no evidence of a fuel leak and we have discovered that the range computer is showing what we consider to be the right amount of miles before running to empty. We have also noticed that the fuel gauge has moved from full and has started to go down. It’s showing 25% more than what the range is, so clearly, there is an issue, one that will have to wait to deal with when we get home. We will still manually calculate the usage.

The farm in Torroella de Montgrí is perfect. We are greeted by donkeys and chickens, the pitch is lovely and we settle in quite quick.

We take a walk around the town. For years we have been coming to this area for the summer holidays. We have cheered up a lot since yesterday, why wouldn’t you? None of it really matters. We got here safe and the van is in good shape apart from maybe a poorly fuel gauge. We shall see when we are home.

After a short walk around this lovely town, we end the day with dinner in Jess with low lights and music.

It’s cold here. We are expecting zero degrees overnight!

24th January – Torroella de Montgrí to Empuriabrava 25 miles

It was so cold last night, but we didn’t feel it in the van. It was warm and toasty.

Breakfast was a short and simple affair followed by a full van service as tonight we may go “off-grid” again so we need to make sure that everything is topped up and emptied! It’s a cold morning but we have blue skies and sun which is warm and bright. Usual story here though, by 5 pm it will be freezing cold…

The drive north through the Costa Brava is very pleasant. Lovely countryside.

This area, known as Empuries, has preserved a lot of Roman history, we are not visiting any today but we have in the past and if you are ever in the area, it’s a big thumbs up. The museum at Empuries is a must-see.

We know this area very well from past holidays and we have been here before in Jess. The last time we were here was with Jess on her second outing. We are going to the same place which allows vans to stop overnight and sure enough, when we arrive it is already populated with a good 8 vans.

Empuriabrava is a network of canals.
Fine supermarket dining

We pick a spot and get settled in. Time for lunch so we get the bikes off the back and cycle down to the seafront of Empuriabrava in the Bay of Roses which is spectacular. Sadly today we couldn’t find anything suitable, however, we did remember that a supermarket near our camp spot has a fantastic restaurant outside, which sounds odd.

Imagine Asda or Tescos having a fantastic restaurant? Unlikely but here it’s true.

The Montserrat Supermarket has a sunny terrace and does serve excellent cheap food.

An hour later we are sitting in the afternoon sun enjoying some tapas followed by half a chicken and chips with a cold beer and wine.

Tomorrow we are crossing the border back into France. It’s getting very cold at night now, the days are still sunny, but how long will it stay that way?

Week 5 – 11th January to 17th January

A poor weather week but with a great ending!

MANILVA TO LA LINEA DE LA CONCEPCION THEN BACK TO NERJA 134 miles

Miles travelled so far: 1883 miles

Toll costs: 10.2 euros this week

Fuel costs: 47.00 euros this week

11th January – Day 4 Manilva

There is a change in the weather, it’s windy, very windy. The sea is starting to look and sound rough but the sun is still out even though the clouds are starting to gather.

After breakfast today we are off for a bike ride, not far just a short one to find a good seafood restaurant for lunch. We find one and it’s brilliant, a lovely place with nice friendly staff.

After a good feed and a bottle of cold rose right next to the sea, we cycle back, it’s late afternoon and the air is getting cooler as it usually does at around 4:30. Hot tea and the heating on in Jess soon sort that out.

Movie night tonight is an excellent film about two scientists that find that an asteroid is going to hit earth in six months but have difficulties convincing everyone. Far far better than it sounds, great fun and quite thought-provoking. Don’t Look Up. Well worth the time.

The wind is really blowing hard now. The van is being pushed about and it is noisy. A bad night’s sleep. Oh well.

12th January – Day 5 Manilva

Not a good night last night, very little sleep thanks to a vicious Levante wind. The Levante wind was one of the winds that used to plague us as sailors. It blows hard for several days from the east and can be very unpleasant. We always did our best to make sure that we were tucked up in a marina before it blew in.

It’s windy all day with the odd shower of rain. The weather has changed dramatically and we are expecting it to be this way now for a few days with more rain forecast from tomorrow. 

It’s a day in today, which is unusual as we like to either go for a walk or get the bikes out, but with the unsettled weather, it doesn’t happen. But what’s this, the clouds have cleared away and despite the wind it turns out to be a beautiful afternoon, warm in the sun. We hurry out on the bikes to a local tapas bar for two or three tapas and a small cold beer, then we are off for a good cycle. It was smashing, a warm, sunny afternoon and well worth it.

Movie night tonight is Revolutionary Road. A definite watch. About a couple and their endeavour for “life” blimey!

13th January – Day 6 Manilva

Despite the howling wind and odd rain shower last night, we slept really well, best in a while. The weather today is brutal. The wind is even stronger than yesterday, we estimate a force 7 which is about 38 mph. Breezy. We are getting regular rain showers and the sea is very rough and noisy but quite spectacular to watch.

Big move today. Massive. We have to move three pitches down. We extended our stay here but had to move to another pitch. The new pitch has a good sea view and a little bit of wind shade. You can get fed up with the noise of the wind, and we are at that stage now. It’s been unrelenting all day every day for the past three days, which might not sound much, but when you are in it…!

The freshwater tank needs a fill-up, so Del sticks the hose in the side of the van to fill the tank and wanders off to do something else only to be called in 5 mins later by H with news that there is water in the living quarters of the van… Yikes! The tank has filled but because the pressure was too high and an effective seal was created on the intake hole, the cap of the tank had leaked and started to run into the van.

We had to effectively rip the living area apart and do a full mop out, no damage just water to mop up. It was a good opportunity however to clean out areas that we can’t normally get to of a few years of dust. Nice. Within 30 minutes everything was cleared up and dried and there was no evidence of any mishap. Lesson learnt: don’t have the water pressure too high when filling up and more importantly don’t leave it filling up unattended. Simple.

Smashing lunch at the same Indian restaurant the other night, this time we went over the correct bridge! Brilliant.

Movie night tonight is Annihilation. About a force field thing that takes over the earth. Some army women are sent in to find out what’s going on. Some die. Not brilliant we know but you can’t knock a coconut down every time.

14th January – Day 7 Manilva

Tasty Bellota Iberico ham

More wind which just goes on and on. Oh and more rain. We manage a walkout and buy some expensive Bellota ham: regarded as the best ham in Spain. The pigs are acorn-fed to produce high quality, good tasting ham. It can be pricey, but we buy a small amount just to try it and can definitely taste the difference.

Despite the wind, we manage to find a restaurant and have a paella (again) outside in a little windbreak in the brief sunshine. It was smashing.

All in all a very wet, cold and windy day. It’s so windy!

15th January – Day 8 Manilva

We are not sure if we have mentioned it but it has been very windy and wet here. Today it is still the same.

We have a small shower leak now, it’s only a little one and it always depends on how much slope there is on the van when we are parked up. A local hardware shop has all we need. A strip of plastic and some silicone and a silicone gun. Back at the van, we get the repair done and leave it 24 hours to cure.

Manilva was supposed to be the place where we were supposed to get the best weather, right down in the south of Spain, in a lovely site, right by the beach, however, the reality has been far from that. Out of the 8 nights, we stayed only three days were good weather, the rest were dreadful with strong winds and sometimes heavy rain and cold! No matter it’s all part of it. For our last night, we go to the Indian restaurant across the dangerous road. What a great dinner we had there. Best Indian EVER!

16th January – Manilva to Linea De Concepcion 21 miles

Tomorrow is the day when we need to turn around and give ourselves a good two weeks to get back to the UK, sure you can do it in less but we want to take our time and see more.

Planning our home route

We have had long conversations about what route back we should take. We have a Euro Tunnel ticket from Calais to Folkstone as well as a ferry from Santander to Portsmouth.

Do we go back the way we came, or do we go up the middle of Spain? We looked at going back through Portugal but they have strict Covid testing requirements so that’s probably not going to happen. Things have calmed down a little in France, some restrictions have been lifted so we decide to go back the way we came.

Today however we are going to La Linea de Concepcion which is on the land border between Spain and Gibraltar. We have been trying to find out what, if any, the requirements are for testing for covid etc, but it’s hopeless. Unless you are flying in from the UK then any information is hard to find, for a UK citizen on foot going from Spain into Gibraltar for a lunch then going back again on foot into Spain the information is non-existent.

The rock of Gibraltar

The weather has improved greatly so off we go, leaving windswept and rainy Manilva, in fact, it’s a lovely day and after about an hour and a bit, we are settled into a great campervan parking place with a view of “The Rock”. Separating it from us is the Gibraltar airport runway. An odd arrangement.

Del gets talking to a British couple and asks if they know anything about what the requirements are to get into Gibraltar. It appears you need nothing but your passport, so armed with said documents we do the short walk to the border and sure enough, all that happens is customs say ‘hola’ stamp your passport and you are done!

The high street in Gibraltar is a bit disappointing really, so after a splendid typical Sunday turkey roast lunch, we get a taxi tour.

For 25 euros each they will take you on a tour for about 45 to 60 minutes. Our driver, called Chris who was Spanish but spoke the most perfect English, drove us around the main tourist spots of Gibraltar. It was brilliant and well worth the money. Chris was fantastic and provided us with a history lesson as we drove around, stopping at some wonderful views of the Straits of Gibraltar with a clear view of North Africa and southern Spain.

Going higher he took us to see the famous monkeys of Gibraltar, the Skywalk and to see the first-ever cannon that the British placed when they took Gibraltar from the Spanish in 1704. (See we paid attention to our guide).

A wonderful afternoon, finished off with a cold beer in the marina, we head back across the border, after watching a plane land at the airport and back to the van for a peaceful night sitting in the front seats with the blinds open and watching as the north side of the Gibraltar rock face is lit up. Beautiful. All in all a great day.

17th January – Linea De Concepcion to Nerja 116 miles

Today is the turnaround day. A day we don’t like to see but it has to come at some point. Today we are leaving our place on the Spanish, Gibraltar border, and more or less retracing our steps back to Calais to make our crossing on the 30th of January.

It was a great day yesterday and back at the van the night started peaceful enough, however by early morning the wind had built up once again and was giving Jess a bit of a battering. Breakfast, clear up and we are off by 10 am. H is doing all the driving today.

A chatty parrot always welcomes you at the campsite.

We are going back to Nerja and to the campsite with the avocado trees. We liked it there, but we are only doing one day. We have to pass Manilva, the place where we were basically windbound for 5 days! It’s a lovely day today once we get away from the wind in Gib. Blue sky no wind and a very pleasant morning drive along the coast.

The chap at the Nerja campsite recognises us and we are checked in quite quick however our pitch is somewhat in the shade this time. No matter, we are not here for long and as soon as we are settled and a little sit in the shade, we are off to a place where we enjoyed a rather splendid lunch by the sea a couple of weeks ago.

Lunch was fantastic, just sitting in the sun talking about our immediate travel plans and our long term future plans.

Full of food and wine we do the 20-minute walk to the van for showers and a very comfortable and peaceful night in. On the move again tomorrow to Almerimar marina, again for a one-night stopover.

Week 4 – 4th to 10th January 2022

Time to settle down, for a while…

NERJA TO MANILVA – 100 miles

Miles travelled so far: 1749 miles

Toll costs: 3.30 euros this week

Fuel costs: 57 euros this week

4th January. Day 3 Nerja

Not much happening today. It’s a lovely day, so we try and do some laundry but it’s too busy so we just give up. Better things to do.

H sits and does her written Jess diary while Del spends a good hour or two brushing up on his Spanish. It’s nice here, we don’t really need to go anywhere. We have our little cosy set up by the van and while the sun shines it’s perfect.

We are surrounded by avocado trees and one of them fell off so we have brought her into the van to see how she does. They grow them here so we bought one huge one on our arrival day. We stuck her in the fruit bowl next to the bananas, which helps the fruit to ripen. We shall see.

High wind is due tonight however so we will probably have to pack up later.

5th January. Day 5 Nerja

Today is the Epiphany, apparently. Time to get all those decs and trees down and put away for another year. In Spain, it’s King’s Day eve, the day when the three kings come. This is the real Christmas day for kids in Spain, the day when they get their new Xbox or PS5. Many towns do a procession depicting the three king’s arrival on a float. When we stayed in Barcelona on the boat, we used to watch the King’s Day parade which seemed to get bigger and more spectacular each year.

What a view!

We take a leisurely stroll to Nerja along the beach, have a drink in an Irish bar that has spectacular views of the southern coastline. we make our way back, the walks have made us a little peckish.

Pre-lunch cocktail

There is a cracking little rough looking restaurant right on the beach near the campsite.

We can’t resist it. Soon we are feeding on seafood and spare ribs, helped along with a bottle of chilled rose. We know that back home the weather is not great, people are working and the news with all the talk about the virus and other stuff is pumped out just to make sure we stay miserable, but there is something quite liberating and calming about a cool drink and some good food in the sun right by the sea. Just for a moment, you forget about everything else that is happening, which can only be a good thing.

6th January Nerja to Almayate (King’s Day!)

We say goodbye to Nerja. It was a very pleasant stay but time to move on. We are doing a long trip today, all 24 miles of it! Jess is long overdue for a good wash. On the way into here, we spotted a car wash that had a platform that once your van was parked you could go onto the platform to wash the roof! Mega! Small things.

With a kind of clean van (no brushes so you can’t get stuck into all the muck, it’s just one of those high-pressure lances) we are on our way. It’s a beautiful day today. There was a heavy shower of rain last night and with the wind, the air is clean and fresh. With the sea on our left and the sun shining from a deep blue sky, we are heading west now along the Spanish coast.

One of Spain’s unofficial symbols is the “toro” or bull and there is one just outside our campsite.

Many of you may have seen it at some point on holiday or on TV, some people have a sticker of him on the back of their cars It’s the silhouette of a bull and they can be found on hills around Spain. These 14m tall and 4-tonne bulls were placed there by the drinks company Osborne many years ago and the government later decided that they should all come down. But after a public outcry to keep them there are about 90 left in Spain. You can see the full history here during your next tea break!

We arrive at the Almayate Costa Campsite. It’s a bit like a car park, everyone is rammed in, it’s not full but the vans that are here are really close-quartered. We choose a spot which is nice and close to everything we need, including a very short skip and a jump to the beach which is amazing. It’s long, clean and empty!

Jess is given some extra TLC with a clean cloth, basically what was not done properly at the car wash.

Jess all polished up!

Time to check out this long beach that’s on our doorstep.

7th January – Day 2 Almayate

We are on our last day here. It seems to be getting warmer so after a short late morning walk into Almayate town, which doesn’t offer much (the whole area around here is agriculture) we pack a few things and head for the beach.

It’s very pleasant, not too hot, very slight cool edge but very nice. We spend a good hour on the beach, head back to the van and sit in the afternoon sun. H reads, Del updates the blog.

Tomorrow we are moving on to Manilva which is an hour and a half drive along the south coast where will set up and stay for 8 days. Lots to see and do around there hence the longer stay. We shall see.

We have acquired a friend here.

A duck. Yes, a duck. It seems he walks around the campsite clearly making friends that will feed him. He’s quite a large duck as a result. Del can’t help it and feeds him bread. Soon the friendly duck is following him back to the van for more. Later in the day when Del pops out, he’s there waiting just outside the van. He’s very tame, friendly and fat!

Oo la la!

Dinners are sometimes themed on Jess, we don’t know why, but we pick a country and eat and theme the van with music etc.

Tonight is French night so it’s entrecote, potatoes, green beans and a tasty pepper sauce, oh and a Spanish red wine! (what?). French traditional music is provided by Spotify! A great night. (We didn’t want to eat our confit duck, that we bought in France, tonight with our friend waddling about outside!)

8th January – Almayate to Manilva 85 miles

Another clear blue sky to wake up to today, it’s expected to reach 18 degrees today which is perfect, it just doesn’t last. By 4 pm each afternoon, the chill is just starting to come in which leads us into quite a cool night.

We are packed up and ready to go on a journey heading west along the Spanish coast, but first we have to do our usual shop, supplies are starting to get low, so we head for an Aldi which has become our supermarket of choice in Spain. Very good, very cheap!

Self service bread cutting in Aldi!

A very pleasant and thankfully uneventful drive. The coastline and towns start to have an American feel to them. The main A7 road runs along here so it’s quite busy, with lots of apartment blocks and shopping areas. If you have ever driven out of Los Angeles to go north up the coast, then it’s a bit like that. In the sun it looks great and with the windows down it was a lovely drive.

The campsite at Manilva is called the Camping La Bella Vista. A nice place. It’s a ‘corporate’ campsite, meaning that everything is immaculate, not a blade of grass out of place, with a gleaming reception area. Everything has to be paid in full in advance and you are given reams of paper telling you what the rules are, it’s a big contrast to the other campsites that we have been to. It’s nice though and our pitch is perfect. We are here now for 8 days. The sun is on us for most of the day, and we can see the sea, everything is on the pitch: power, clean water and you can empty your grey water tank as well. All good.

Once settled in we take the very short walk to the beach to check it out. It’s quite spectacular. Looking out to sea we can make out Gibraltar and north Africa on our right and the Spanish coastline weaving away to our left. The recent wind and rain have meant the visibility is clear and the air fresh. Lovely.

H with a makeshift rolling pin

Another themed dinner night. Italian night. The works though. 4 courses: antipasti, pasta, homemade pizza, salad and dessert. Blimey!

Finally…!

9th January – Day 2 Manilva

Time to get some exercise done after the big Italian night. We get the bikes down, for the first time this year, and we cycle along the promenade for a couple of kilometres. It’s another one of those Spanish holiday weekends so everyone is out making the cycle ride more of an obstacle course than proper exercise. It’s very good though to see everyone out and about. The restaurants are full and the sun is shining. It’s another lovely day.

We get a bit fed up with weaving about, trying not to run children down and finally decide to settle into a little bar right on the front for a small cold beer and take the opportunity to call home and speak to some friends and family.

Tonight is Indian night. Not on the van. There is a very highly regarded Indian restaurant across the road from the campsite. We’ll pay that a visit, as it’s so close.

Dinner, here we come!

The campsite is on the main N-340 road, a very busy 4 carriageway road and the restaurant is just across that road, you can smell it sometimes from the campsite, you can see it all bright and welcoming, but you can’t just cross the N-340 with traffic flowing at 70 mph.

H finds a bridge so off we go, up, over and down to… nothing! It goes nowhere. Google shows a dirt track going back towards the restaurant so off we trot. Bad idea. Soon we are covered by large vegetation taller than us and after 5 minutes of trekking through this, we are brought to an abrupt stop by a small river. Great!

Not what we expected

We retrace our steps and find another bridge, further down the fast N-340. By now our appetite has truly been sharpened. Once again we go up, across and down, this time with success! Ten minutes later we are in the very nice Indian restaurant which was well worth the 45-minute trip ‘just across the road’.

The food was excellent, great service and not too expensive. They do a very nice cheap lunch here, so we will be back during our stay. The walk back to the van felt long but soon we are settled in. It’s very windy tonight, the van gets rocked about a bit but it’s nice in Jess.

10th January – Day 3 Manilva

At last, the wind has died off to leave us with a stunning day. 19 degrees, clear blue sky. The morning is spent updating blogs: this one and H is doing a written one.

Beach day today. It has to be.

Jess is filled up with fresh water, grey tank emptied. However, Del has to do the chemical toilet, Nice. Then off we go on the short walk to the beach…

We spend a good two hours there, today is to be the best day as windy and cloudier weather is coming in, so we take advantage of it while we can.

Movie night tonight is Jimmy Carr – His Dark Material, not really a film. Good fun though, refreshing non PC humour which we could do with a bit more of today certainly not less.

Week 3 – 28th December to 3rd January 2022

A very happy new year to you all. We hope!

PALOMARES – NERJA: 157 MILES

Palomares to Nerja

Miles travelled so far: 1649 miles

Toll costs: NONE this week

Fuel costs: NONE this week

28th December. Day 3 Palomares

It’s another bright, sunny day and warm. Today we shall have our breakfast outside. Yes outside, at the end of December!

We thought that we might take a walk into the town of Palomares, which is only 10 to 15 minutes away. As expected we arrive in the main square which is dominated by a large terrace belonging to a tapas bar.

While we are here we need to find a ‘ferreteria’ or hardware shop. Spanish hardware shops are brilliant, they are an Aladdin’s cave of everything you can think of. We buy a pair of hosepipe adapters, always useful. Some PTFE tape to bind up our leaking sink, amalgamating tape because it’s useful and finally a set of small Tupperware containers because Hayley likes them.

Fiduea for lunch

Satisfied with our purchases we make for the terrace in the square and have an excellent coffee before the walk back to the van. We drop off the hardware goodies and take a walk to the beach that has a beach bar where we thought we would enjoy a small cold beer in the sun.

After spending two hours and 50 euros on lunch we take a nice long stroll along the beach and discuss our future life plan. Yes very deep.

The walk along the beach and back to the van was very pleasant, once back we drank lots of water and just relaxed in the late afternoon sun.

No dinner tonight after the long heavy lunch, but we ended the day with a movie night and watched “The Boy in the striped pyjamas“. A great movie if a little depressing.

29th December. Day 4 Palomares

What a beautiful morning, slightly cooler than yesterday but that doesn’t stop us from having breakfast outside. It’s a lovely morning, perfect for a piece of tortilla and tomato bread. Delicious.

Today we intend to get some more exercise. We made a pledge to try and either get a good long walk in or a good few miles of cycling every day, weather permitting of course. Today we will get on our bikes and cycle to the next town of Villaricos. It’s a great cycle, the sun is shining and the sea on our right looks amazing. A perfect day.

Villaricos is a tiny fishing town of over 600 people with some spectacular views from the front. The town itself is quite charming so we stop in the town square and have a lovely Spanish coffee.

We love Spanish coffee. It’s the right amount, tasty and cheap unlike the overpriced soup bowl size cup of hot water with burnt grit that most coffee shop chains serve up. In most Spanish cities you can find a famous coffee chain, they never look full and we can understand why with so many cafes selling good local coffee – why you would go in?

The cycle ride back was just as pleasant as it was going to Villaricos. Except we take a few detours to see more of the local area. Back at the van, we take it easy before taking a good walk to the beach bar for a refreshing drink, maybe a cocktail in the afternoon sun.

After 3 large plates consisting of patatas bravas, calamari and ‘puntillas’ (baby squids), helped along with a glass of wine and a cold beer, we decided that the afternoon cocktail went well!

A perfect day today. Breakfast in the sun, plenty of exercise followed by a big feed instead of a cocktail and back to the van for another movie night. Tonight the film “Life” which is all about an intelligent life form from Mars that looks like a squid and kills everyone. It was actually better than it sounds.

Tomorrow we are moving on after a very nice four day stay here at Palomares.

30th December. Palomares to Castell de Ferro – 124 miles

Another bright but cool morning. No breakfast on the van today. We packed up outside last night and we are off by 9.30 am. First stop, a supermarket to stock up, it’s the penultimate day of 2021. Let’s get this year out of the way!

There is quite a fog here today and it’s chilling the air. Once the shop is done we get a move on.

We are heading for a small town called Garrucha where we will park in the marina car park for breakfast. This marina was a welcome sight years ago when we sailed up and down the Spanish coast. It’s the first big marina for miles after the Cabo de Gata (the bottom right corner of Spain) and they always squeezed us in after a punishing sail so we are very fond of the place. Nothing much had changed over the 12 years since we were last here except maybe a little fresh paint here and there. The fog is following us south as it soon thickens up here too, and it’s getting chilly. We get going and soon we are at higher altitudes and bright sunlight. The temperature peaks at 23 degrees which is perfect. The passing scenery is quite spectacular.

Our next stop is Almerimar. A town on the south coast of Spain, 90 or so miles east of Malaga.

There is a marina here where we used to keep our boat when we lived down here some years ago. The place has come on with new buildings going up and it’s quite a bustling place. We park up on the outer harbour which gives us a spectacular view east and west, and looking north a breathtaking view of the snow-covered tops of the Sierra Nevada mountains north of Granada.

Snow on the Sierra Nevada

On the move again to our final destination of Camping Huerta Romero. The site is located in the middle of a small town called Castell de Ferro. It’s a bit… well… a bit like a commune. There are campers who look like they have been here for years, a lot of unshaven men with buns in their hair and tie-dyed trousers. The site itself is charming though with lots of trees and shade, not that we need it right now. Each plot is like a private garden.

Jess tucked in for a few days

Lovely. We set off for a walk to the stony beach. Guess what? The fog is rolling in again. What’s going on?

A short walk back to the van through the town, which, not to be unkind, doesn’t really offer much. Tomorrow we will give it another go. It might look and feel different in sunlight. If we ever get it that is.

31st December – Day 2 Castell de Ferro

Last day of 2021…

No sun this morning. It’s 100% grey and still with a slight chill. Guess the town won’t look any different from yesterday after all.

A foggy day in Castell de Ferro

Two people living, eating and sleeping on a van that is just shy of 6m means that you have to clean more often, so, despite the poor weather and the lack of town, (you can’t even cycle here) we get on with some cleaning jobs and do some more laundry.

Del sets off for a walk along the local beach for an hour, H stays with Jess and attempts a repair to the leaky sink which has eluded us for some days. Numerous attempts have not stopped the leak. Despite her efforts, it is still leaking. Del has a go next, once back from his walk. This time lashings of PTFE tape and amalgamating tape. That’ll fix it…?

The rest of the afternoon is taken up discussing the future, where shall we go, how do we do it and for how long.

Can’t get enough of these paellas!

Hayley does one of her excellent paellas for dinner which was later than usual. Tonight we have a rose cava on standby to bring in the new year.

After dinner, we take a stroll into town which is… dead! We are the only ones in town apart from a group of five youth on mobile phones. We head back to the van, a little disappointed and take in a quick movie. Tonight it’s a French film called “Oxygen” about a woman who is woken up from a cryogenic state to find (spoiler alert) she’s a clone in outer space. It was better than it sounds. Very good in fact.

With midnight approaching we grab a couple of glasses and bring in 2022 with a cold glass of fizz and a packet of crisps. Excellent. We dab a bit of fizz on Jess and thank her for getting us here. We love her very much.

Happy 2022 to you all. Here’s to a successful and healthy new year.

Happy New Year

1st January Day 3 – Castell de Ferro

The leak under the sink is fixed. Bound up in many yards of PTFE tape and amalgamating tape. Nothing will get through now. The morning starts off more or less the same as yesterday, cloudy and foggy. Del does a bit more deep cleaning of the van and by the afternoon the sun is shining and the fog has finally gone. At last. We head for the beach and sit by the water’s edge watching and listening to the gentle waves breaking. We sit for a while in silence. It’s the start of a new year.

H gets caught out paddling. Whoops!

Dinner tonight is a fridge clear out. We waste nothing, so on occasion we go through the fridge and check dates on things, if it’s getting close then we eat it. These dinners can be a thrown together hotch pitch of almost anything. It’s always good though, even if it’s all a bit of a miss-match.

Tonight’s movie, called “The Silence“. It’s about some blind birds that get released from a deep cave. They can’t see and attack humans by noise. Yeah, not the best we know. It was as bad as it sounds.

2nd January. Castell de Ferro to Nerja – 41 miles

We move on today. Hayley is not mad on it here and she is probably right when she says we won’t come back here again. Sad to say it but there’s not much here and the weather hasn’t really helped. Shame really but there you go. It was our home for 3 nights but we are glad to be moving on.

After a short van service, we are off. It’s good to be moving again. Today we are off to Nerja to a popular campsite called Camping Cortijo San Miguel. First, though we need to do a shop. You can always depend on a Spanish Aldi on a Sunday.

A short drive today and soon we are in our pitch which is quite charming, surrounded by avocado trees on either side of us, a much more open feeling compared to our last stop. The usual morning fog has lifted and it’s a lovely day.

We decide to just stay put for the rest of the day. We are here for 3 days and may extend, it’s nice, warm and peaceful here.

3rd January. Day 2 Nerja

Same old story weather-wise. It’s cold with low clouds or fog, can’t really tell anymore. No matter, today we are walking along the beach to the town of Nerja and we are going to check out the Cuevas de Nerja (the Caves of Nerja).

Wow! This is quite a place, not what we expected at all. The caves are huge with amazing rock formations all around. They hold the Guinness world record for the biggest stalactite column in the world, the hall was created by an earthquake that hit the region more than 800,000 years ago. It’s quite a sight to see.

To get there we took one of those little sightseeing trains that do a return trip to the caves and entry to the museum for just 16 euros each, well worth it.

After the caves, we get back to the town of Nerja to look for a place for a “light” lunch. As is the usual form at the moment, the fog has cleared and it’s a beautiful day.

So a little lunch by the sea would be fitting justice for a lovely day. We don’t find much in the town, there is plenty there for sure, but it’s quite busy and a little touristy. We walk back in the direction of home and find a perfect place right on the beach. It’s not long before we have an excellent Wagyu beef burger with some homemade fries which went well worth a bottle of rose wine and finished with a dessert to share. Yes very light!

The walk back home is perfect, just in time for the sun setting and the air turning chilly again.

What a lovely day. Laundry day tomorrow. Again.

Week 2 – 21st to 27th December

Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas!

BENICASSIM, SPAIN – PALOMARES: 306 MILES

Benicassim to Palomares, Spain.

Miles travelled so far: 1492 miles

Toll costs: NONE this week

Fuel costs: 105 euros this week

21st December Benicassim – Oliva 108 miles

We need to do some service work on the van. After a big shop at a Lidl, we head for a garage to do a full diesel fill up, yes more diesel. LPG gas for the cooking and the heating. We need to empty the grey water tank and fill up with fresh water. Today we are heading for a campsite called Euro Camping right on the beach in a town called Oliva which is not a million miles from both Valencia and Alicante. Benidorm is just around the headland going south from where we will be.

After doing all the Jess jobs and the shopping we set off on the uneventful 90-minute drive. Arriving just in time for the official opening at 3:30, we have a great pitch near all the things you need, shop, restaurant, shower, bog etc, etc. Excellent… except… 

Italian Night!

We start setting up and we are overwhelmed by the smell of cat kak! We have only put our groundsheet down on some! It gets well disguised as pebbles after it’s been in the fine gravel for a while. The whole thing has to be pulled up and ground thoroughly cleaned and swept before putting everything back. Not the way we wanted to start our 5 days stay here.

We get settled in and it’s very pleasant, just a 2-minute walk and we are on the beach, surrounded by everything we need including cats!

Italian night tonight with homemade pizza, salad and red wine, with just enough room for a mini Magnum. Well, why not. Tomorrow it’s Del’s birthday…!

22nd December Day 2 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Today is Del’s birthday. Happy birthday Del!!

Another great bike ride along the coast to the town of Oliva. Our campsite is wonderful. We have everything we need right next to us, the best pitch on the site. Short walks to the shower, shops, restaurant and the beach. Another important facility camping folk need is laundry.

Everyone has to do it, birthday or not

Today is the day. We have a good few days of laundry mounting up so what better thing to do on a birthday but to get it done.

The weather is fair so we leave it all out to dry and head off our bikes to the nearest town going south called Oliva. Whilst our campsite is a small oasis, the rest of the area is not that great. Full of half-built properties, empty properties and properties that are just closed up and have become a good surface for graffiti artists. Lots of brown barren land. We can’t figure out quite what’s happened here. Is it since the recession of 2008, where the lower and middle classes have now been squeezed out of owning property? The weather is great, the beaches are long and white so it should be a booming, pretty place. Maybe not connected but Valencia is famous for its ‘land grab‘ law, which allowed the local councils to confiscate part of your land and make you pay the taxes that would provide for the new local infrastructure built on it. There is a good write up about this here if you are ever interested. It’s pretty bad really.

We arrive at the marina in Oliva which is pleasant enough, and we head for the restaurant belonging to the Club Nautic (sailing club to you) which has a fabulous sea view in the sun. The service is excellent and we manage to choke down some local rose wine, Calamaris followed by a Fideua which is a twist on paella – instead of rice, it’s short pieces of pasta with a tonne of seafood thrown in and left to boil down. Delicious. We finish this off with a muffin and ice cream.

Full of food we cycle back to our ‘home’, which is now a bit more of a struggle. We arrive back to dried washing which is put away then off to the local campsite bar for a couple of ‘pacharan’ drinks in the late afternoon sun, which at this time the air is starting to get chilly.

23rd December Day 3 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Day 3 in our Euro Camping location, and more washing. Yes, more laundry. For the first time since we arrived at this location, the clouds have cleared and the sun is out, but there is a chill in the air. It’s also time for our daily bike exercise. Today we cycle north, weaving our way through the derelict un-kept streets. 

We have a leak in the sink drain, so we make an attempt to find a plumbing shop to buy some PTFE tape only to find nothing. Looks like the bowl will have to stay under the sink a bit longer!

From the van to the beach it’s a 30-second walk, so we take advantage of the sunshine and walk north towards Oliva, it’s great to be here, no news, no worries just us and the sea and the sand.

Late afternoon beach walks

We reminisce again as we used to sail along this part of the Med passing all of these towns we can see along the coastline. We have such great memories of our boat. We still miss her.

Dinner on board Jess and a quiet night in. Brilliant.

24th December Day 4 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Christmas Eve night is when the Spanish celebrate Christmas. ‘La noche buena’. This is when a big dinner is had and gifts are exchanged. We are here because we wanted to escape the usual trappings of a British Christmas so what shall we do today?

It’s a cool morning but after breakfast we set up outside under the awning to read and just…, well, do nothing! It’s good. The sun comes out and it warms up nicely. The Spanish have a tradition at Christmas of preparing and touring floats around the local towns and villages, usually with people dressed as Santa Claus and all that kind of thing. Today is no exception, even on the campsite, the maintenance department has used one of their small trucks, dressed up and are driving around the site, giving each camper a gift of local Valencian olive oil.

Maintenance men bearing gifts

Fantastic, what a nice surprise and gesture. Makes a change from a bottle of wine. Very useful. We are running out!

Local olive oil. Nice

We stay local today, taking in a nice long stroll along the beach again.

25th December Day 4 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Merry Christmas to you all!!

Some cards we managed to bring. Thank you.

The weather has slightly improved, still a bit on the chilly side but who cares. Today is Christmas day. We exchange gifts and open up cards from friends and family that we were able to bring along with us. We’ve done quite well, with more waiting for when we get home.

We have a big hearty breakfast and Del pops open some fizz to have with breakfast. Well, why not? It’s a very pleasant morning so we take a stroll along ‘our’ beach. It’s a lovely day now so we have taken along with some chairs, the remainder of the fizz and a couple of glasses and enjoy the rest of the bottle with the gentle waves breaking near us and the winter sun just keeping us warm enough. Brilliant. H even manages a paddle in the sea!

Back at the van and H knocks up a fantastic paella for our Christmas day lunch. it’s wonderful, helped along with a glass of cold rose.

Christmas day Paella lunch

Not the usual Christmas day, of too many presents, too much food and chocolate. Drink excluded. No TV, no sleigh bells ringing, no indigestion and no wondering what the hell this day is all about and why all the fuss! Just the two of us, in a van, in the sun and somewhere else. Magic!

26th December – Oliva to Palomares – 198 miles

Time to move on. We have spent 5 great days here at Eurocamping, but the weather is not quite what we are looking for and we are pushing south to hopefully warmer weather. Everyone here was very nice, the staff and the people staying here, which for the most part are German.

We packed up last night so all we have to do is fire up Jess and off we go.

Today we are heading for Palomares in the province of Andalucia. We make a stop at a gas station to fill up with diesel, it’s good to keep topped as you never know what will happen and the last thing you want to be doing is trying to find fuel when your plan changes unexpectedly. So keep the tank topped up when you can.

We leave the petrol station and make off down the AP-7, after about 10 minutes a white van driver is levelling up with us and pointing at our fuel door and making a locking gesture. Whoops!!!! Del forgot to shut the door that covers the diesel intake. Worse than that the cap was not on! Worse than the second set of keys were still in the cap! Del, you are a dope. We pull in at another gas station and by coincidence, the white van driver was there, so we take the opportunity to thank him. Fortunately, we could all see the funny side of it but it’s a mystery how much if any fuel got out?

Finally, we arrive at a rustic looking campsite and we choose a pitch as the office is closed. It all looks a bit… well… old and well used but it’s populated with some expensive vans from all over Europe. No matter we get in and set up. It’s perfect here. The staff are nice, yes the facilities are dated but they are clean and they all work. Perfect, what more could you ask for. We are here for 4 nights at Cuevas Del Mar. Which has a nudist area nearby. Just saying…

Tonight we dine on board, tomorrow we will see what’s here. We get a dinner time sunset.

This is real. No photo trickery

27th December Day 2 – Palomares

We wake up today to finally deep blue skies coming our way and by 10 am it’s beautiful and warm. We are about a 5-minute walk from the beach which we stroll down in the warming sun, there are lots of motorhomes along the front here and even after studying the council notice it’s unclear if it’s allowed or not (are we campers or just motorhomers?) Even though it’s warm and sunny, there is quite a strong wind blowing that creates spectacular sand clouds on the beach that get blown into the sea.

Palomares beach

We make our way back to camp for a break. Whilst reading the reviews of the camping areas Hayley notices a strange comment on one about nuclear contamination in the area dating back to the sixties, and a quick google informs us that this tiny Spanish village is famous because it had four hydrogen bombs dropped on it by accident by a US airforce plane in a mid-air collision whilst refuelling. None of them caused a nuclear explosion by sheer luck, but two of these bombs had the conventional explosives inside them detonate and scatter the plutonium like a dirty bomb. Gosh.

Time magazine described the incident as “one of the world’s worst nuclear disasters”. This happened in 1966 and some of the areas around the village of Palomares are still restricted because of radioactivity.

It’s a shocking story and one we had no idea about. You can read about the whole thing here. It’s well worth a read.

After this sobering interlude, we cycle into the nearby urbanisation, it looks like it would be quite lively in the summer. It’s also a nudist area and we see a naked man playing a saxophone on the seafront. He had a big one – it was a tenor sax. The stuff you see around here.

The rest of the afternoon is spent in the fantastic warm sun back at the van, it’s a blistering 23 degrees!

Tonight is dinner on board and we watch the first 10 minutes of a dubious Cliff Richard film (Finders Keepers) from 1966 which is based, loosely, on the terrible events we have learned about today. Coincidence?

Week 1 – 13th to 20th December

Will we make it?

EAST COWES, UK TO BENICASSIM, SPAIN – 1181 MILES

Home to Benicassim, Spain.

Miles travelled: 1181 miles

Toll costs: 90 euros

Fuel costs: 228 euros

Bottles of wine drunk: 4

Cans of beer drunk: 10

 

 

 

 

13th December – Set up stop at home

Will we, won’t we? It was at least six months ago when we decided that we would like to spend Christmas and New Year in Spain, it was all going very well, too well. A month or so earlier France wanted UK visitors to take and upload a lateral flow test along with a sworn declaration that you didn’t have Covid. No problem really, quite simple. Find a test centre, get a test and upload all the forms. What we didn’t expect was the test centre would cancel our appointment the day before departure. A few stern words with them soon brought them around to our way of thinking, even though we had already found an alternative. They agreed to pick up all of the extra costs incurred and do our test. Whew.

Covid on the move. Agian!

But what’s this? A new variant of Covid is running wild through the population, highly infectious but so far too early to know how many people will end up in hospital. Just another thing for us to add into an already stressful mix. Is there something telling us that we shouldn’t be doing this? We’ve had our negative test returned, the forms of nonsense have been uploaded to Eurotunnel. WE ARE GOING!!!

We collect Jess from storage, having already pre-loaded some stuff on her we spend a less stressful, but anxious night a mere quarter of a mile from our home in a campsite called Waverley Park. Despite the worry, we have a good nights sleep.

14th December East Cowes – Neufchâtel en Bray – 273 Miles

The alarm is loud and shrill. It’s 5:00 am. Yes, 5 in the morning. Today is a busy day. Our ferry to the mainland is at 06:40. We then need to get across southern England to Folkestone to the Eurotunnel for our 3:20 pm crossing to Calais, France.

Eurotunnel to France

Oh, and on the way to Folkestone we need to stop in Canterbury to get Hayley her booster. Why Canterbury? Good old Isle of Wight NHS couldn’t do it, like most things! So we had to find another site on the route.

The day could not have gone better. We were pushed onto an early ferry to Portsmouth. Hayley got her booster jab early and to make things even better, Eurotunnel put us on an early train meaning that we would be arriving in France in daylight hours. Perfect, better than we thought.

More potentially bad news coming from France. The new Covid variant, Omicron is causing some concern for the French now. We are getting nervous that the border with Spain may shut. We press on through France after a non-event crossing. The only item that was checked was our passports. Easy!

After a 273 mile drive and a 13 euro toll, we arrive at the peaceful town of Neufchâtel en Bray and find a spot in the lovely Aire camping Saint Claire. Once settled in we toast to our success of finally making it to France and dinner is steak, frites with a bearnaise sauce with a French red of course! All in all a bit of a rollercoaster but we are relieved to be here and we have a great night’s sleep. Whew!

15th December Neufchâtel en Bray – Issoire 379 Miles

We wake up to a cold, crisp morning. Grey skies, but dry and pleasant despite the cold temperature. It’s perfect. Hot coffee and breakfast will see us right. We had a plan to spend 5 days making our way south to the French – Spanish border, however, the news from home isn’t good and the French are making noises about possible restrictions, yes we are already here in France, but the Spanish may start making similar noises and we could end up being trapped in France. No big deal really, but our aim is to get winter sun in Spain not winter in France. There is a difference. Hayley is brilliant at finding stops en route. We always end up in excellent places for the night, she finds lots of options. We need options as we have decided to make our French stay as short as possible and to get over the border as quickly as possible.

After 379 miles of driving, 100 quid in diesel and 51 euros in motorway tolls we finally arrive at the pleasant town of Issoire.

Nightime in the French town of Issoire

The nights are now very cold. Tonight it’s zero degrees and damp. We are parked in an excellent overnight Aire along with another 5 vans all doing similar things, all wanting to be somewhere else.

Truffard. Delicious

Tonight we will eat out at a French restaurant and we find a cracker. 60 euros lighter but heavier with all the food and drink. Christmas beer, red wine, steak, duck and the local dish of Truffard which is potatoes cooked in goose fat and covered in local cheese.

What a feast we had in this lovely town that looked great for Christmas, with projections on the old buildings, Christmas trees and a local Christmas market. Wonderful. We shiver as we do a quick walk back to our home on wheels, fire up the heating and have another great night’s sleep. So far so good.

16th December Issoire – Camping l’albera –  Capmany Spain 273 miles

Today the temperature is between zero and -2. Who knows, who cares, it’s freezing cold. Del is dispatched to the local shop for pastries. Today we decided that we will break for the border as we are getting more concerned, not about the virus, but more about what governments will do. We set off via a supermarket for some supplies and fill up with diesel and set off, taking turns on our 273-mile journey to somewhere in Spain. 

The journey was amazing. We drove along the A75 south which includes a section of road that climbs to just over 1100 meters high. We drove through thick, but very thick fog and some snow, but only a bit of snow. The temperature dropped to -2 and at times became challenging, but it’s all part of the adventure as we pushed on for what felt like hours. Then suddenly the sun started to poke through and after a while revealed a beautiful blue sky with some spectacular scenery of small towns in valleys shrouded in low fog. We even took in the Millau viaduct which is a spectacle in itself, even if it does cost 13 euros! What an amazing drive.

Dinner in at Capmany

We finally cross the border at La Jonquera, a madhouse of trucks. We have never seen so many trucks. In fact, that was the one thing that we noted driving through France, the number of haulage trucks. The UK is supposed to be short. They are all here!!

Again the crossing was uneventful, no stops, no checks. Once again Hayley has found us a brilliant campsite in the town of Capmany only a couple of miles off the main motorway. It was time to stop, it had been a long tiring and expensive day. 273 miles, 75 euros in fuel and 13 in tolls. Well worth it though.

17th December 2nd day in Capmany

Our decision to get a move on was well-founded. Noises from home are that the French are indeed going to ban travel from the UK into France for holidays. You can only come to France from the UK for “Exceptional reasons”. What’s that? We made it by the skin of our teeth, a very close shave. We got into France in the nick of time. With all the trouble at the start of the trip we thought about a postponement for a week, if we had have done that then the trip would have been cancelled.

Capmany town Christmas tree by night.

We are a good day or two ahead of the original plan so we decide to stay here for another day. It’s a beautiful place, a small wine-producing area in Catalunya. We take a walk into the small town of Capmany. It’s great to be here. The weather is bright and crisp with clear blue skies and a temperature of about 12 to 14 degrees. The nights are cold, however, dropping to 2 to 4 degrees but the heating on Jess keeps us warm.

Today we get the bikes off the van. Hayley has a new one, a birthday gift from you know who. It’s a belting bike and one she well deserves.

We circle the local area, nothing too stressful but it’s good to be out and about exploring the local area, even though we get barked at by the local dogs!

Dinner tonight will be in the village of Capmany, Cal Ferrer, a lovely little place that serves local food and wine at a reasonable price. The walk home is cold but we are content and happy if that’s not too much to show off about in these times?

18th December  Capmany – Cambrils – 160 miles

Today is the day the French ban comes into force, stopping British tourists.

UK. Non…

The pictures and news of people trying to get on trains and ferries yesterday have been staggering. Considering the ban on travel is to stop the spread of Omicron, it’s a bit odd watching thousands of people cramming onto trains and boats. Someone, somewhere didn’t think that through?

We are pushing south today but we are now sticking to the plan. Our first stop is Cambrils, not too far south of Barcelona. Our stop is a campsite right by the sea.

The beach at Cambrilis

Again the weather is lovely, blue skies and the daily temp is up another degree or two from yesterday. Lovely.

19th December  Cambrils day 2

We like out here, and we could do with the rest, the days have been long and it’s nice here. There is a good cycle route from Cambrils to Salou, a total of 14 miles, 7 each way. It’s good and flat all the way. We are still lucky to have such wonderful weather with us, yes it’s a bit chilly at night but the days are just fantastic.

With the sea on our right, we head north on the cycle route to Salou. We take a short break once there, sitting on a bench looking out over the sparkling flat sea and reminiscing about our days when we used to sail along these very waters between the south of Spain to Barcelona. Now with the sea on our left, it’s back south to our home on wheels for turkey steaks, fries, salad and wine, simple but delicious after a great day.

20th December Cambrills – Benicassim – 96 miles

A couple of years ago we did a trip to Germany and we visited a place called Todtnau. Just a quick note here -the inventor of the perm hairstyle came from Todtnau. Yes really. In Todtnau they have an alpine coster which is basically a plastic car that you sit in and go down a steel track at lightning speed. It’s great fun. This is where H rediscovered her love for rollercoasters. She loves them and everywhere that we go we have to go to the nearest theme park and spend some time on some of the most terrifying rides. 

In Cambrils, we are less than a 20-minute drive from Portaventura. After some discussion and re-planning, we pack up and head back south to Portaventura so that H can get her fix of rollercoasters. It’s a great day, H completes 21 rides on some of the world-famous and most popular rides. She has a permanent grin on her face all day while Del carries her bag! Great.

By 4:30 it’s time to move on as we have a two-hour drive to our next stop in the town of Benicassim for a one night stay. It’s motorway all the way and by 7:30 we are parked up in a charming little campsite in the middle of a residential area, very peaceful and a great place to end the day.

2004. A new year, and we are still here!

Out for a New Years sail with some good ‘new’ friends

In 2003 we sold our house, and gave up our jobs to embark on a new life on a boat. We have been living aboard a boat for 8 months now. We are now looking for a new home in the south of Spain where we will live having sold Stargazer and start a new chapter in our life. We take a big break from the boat and do a concert tour in the UK…! Well why not…?

Friday 2nd January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 93

A rather quiet start to the new year. Drinks with Jack and Tan, the boat light winners, on their boat. Very nice.


Saturday 3rd January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 94

Drinks today on Magellan cloud. It’s Steve’s birthday today there are 20 people on a 30 foot boat!! The boat is listing somewhat and sits 4 inches below the normal waterline. We do the short pootle from our boat and arrived by dinghy for the novelty of it, but when we come to leave, we find that 10m out we run out of fuel, much to the amusement of the rest of the guests. We have to now row to our boat.


Sunday 4th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 95

Like everybody at New Year we decide that we should get fit and healthy, and do exercise, so we have a nice long walk along the beach followed by a bike ride.

We try to get into the Picasso Museum in the centre of town. It’s free today, but everyone else has the same idea, it’s packed so we decide to wait and go another day.


Monday 5th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 96

Hayley is getting her haircut today, at last.

We go out for another bike ride today. Our favourite restaurant, the Bombeta is not doing a cheap menu today and it’s a holiday here. so we try a different one which is next to our regular Japanese restaurant. It was very good and very cheap Tonight it’s the Kings Day Parade. Tradition has it that the Three Kings arrive by boat, they give a speech, and are giving the keys to the city so they can deliver all the presents. They are then driven to the park where they start the parade, which goes all the way up to Montjuic hill.

What a great parade, full of mechanical animals and fabulous creatures with people throwing sweets from the floats for everyone to catch. A bright, colourful event. We all got some sweets.

We finish the night off with a kebab, the first in many years! Del manages to keep his down! These’s a story there somewhere…


Tuesday 6th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 97

It’s Kings Day here today, so everything is closed…!


Wednesday 7th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 98

Lunch out to day in town with our good friends Karen, Paul, Jack and Tan.


Thursday 8th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 99

Spanish lessons today. We get to try different sweets in the lesson, but blindfolded. We have to describe the taste of them in Spanish.


Friday 9th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 100

We went to the cinema today to see Master and Commander. Quite gruesome in parts. What those sailors had to put up with. Nice cinema. Very clean with no ‘odd‘ smells. Our cinema back in Harrow, a Warner Brothers cinema could learn something from here.


Saturday 10th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 101

We were planning to finally take the boat out on a trip to another marina. We have been in Barcelna now for 100 days, and all we have done is local sails just outside the marina. We have forgotten how to sail properly.

Our plan is to go to Sitges, just south of Barcelona, but we get up too late and we’re not very prepared, so we will postpone it until tomorrow. Also the wind is a force 6 early this morning.

We still take the boat out for a potter. It’s a beautiful day, warm enough for us to put on our shorts and go barefoot around the boat. It’s January!

The sea is flat and we manage a sedate sail south.

We notice that we have a visitor. There is long ‘fin thing’ which is trailing behind the boat and stays there with us, not moving. Finally a long fish thing emerges which is 75 cm long, upside down, and showing a rather showing a large sucker, which is its mouth. He spits water out at. We both yell out! There are some strange beasts at sea…


Sunday 11th January 2004 – Port Vell to Aiguadolc (Sitges) 19 miles, 26 euros

Today we are finally getting away from Barcelona for a few days. We have a sailing boat so let’s go somewhere…

The weather is beautiful, so we get ready for our little two day escape from Barcelona. We get a good wind for most of the way, and Stargazer peaks at 6.5 knots, not bad. We have to get used to this ‘tippy uppy’ thing again that boats do. It’s been a while.

We arrive at three in the afternoon. The marina is lovely, a great place to be in the summer no doubt. It’s a bit like Lavendou in France with restaurants lining the quay.

We walk into the town up and over a bit of a hill and find it too is lovely. A grand palm tree lined promenade with a nice beach. We will come back tomorrow for a better look around and to have dinner. We feed the ducks.

Dinner tonight is Green Thai curry. Very nice.


Monday 12th January 2004 – Sitges – Day 2

Even though it was very peaceful here last night in Sitges, Hayley didn’t sleep very much.

The boat rigging was making some noise against the mast, and there are of course the ducks!

After a leisurely breakfast we walk into town past ‘Cat Square‘, there are lots of them. We have a couple of very expensive drinks by the sea, it’s a nice sunny day, just a little cool, it is January.

We have a cheap menu of the day in town and stagger back for a nap in the afternoon, which is rudely disturbed when we feel the back of boat hitting the concrete pontoon, so we let out the boat lines a little to create a larger gap between us and the pontoon, to stop it happening.

Dinner is a takeout pizza after much difficulty trying to getting H back on the boat as there is now a large gap.

During the night the wind starts to build. We are hoping to leave and go back to Barcelona tomorrow.


Tuesday 13th January 2004 – Sitges – Day 3

Today we wake up to a wind which is force 7, the cleats are creaking and groaning as we are in a very unprotected spot in the marina. The wind is hitting our starboard bow full-on. It looks like we will be staying here today, so we take advantage of the wind and do some washing, clean and air the boat. We spend some quite time and read.

Later we shop in town, and on the way back we pop in to the marina office to pay for our stay. We thought it was €13 a night, but we had read it wrong, it’s €26 and we are here for a few days. No idea how we got that so wrong.

We must get off from here tomorrow, but the forecast isn’t good. What a rip-off for a winter birth.

Dinner is Spanish stew


Wednesday 14th January 2004 – Sitges to Port Vell, Barcelona 19 miles

H wakes up at 8:30, and there is no wind so she gives Del a nudge and within 10 minutes we have cast off and are leaving.

There is a bit of a swell but things are okay, so we motor all the way back to Barcelona. En route we have some fried egg sandwiches and tea. The wind has now completely gone until we’re near Barcelona. We’re at the entrance. It’s now a force 6.

We decide to go bow in, but the wind gets us and we end up floundering in the channel. 2nd attempt we make it. Just.


Tuesday 27th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 118

We have a friend on our pontoon today, a heron, we call him Harry. He stands about on the end of the pontoon, and sometimes wanders down the fingers of the pontoon where, if you frighten him, he runs at you to takeoff. It’s quite frightening. We’ve tried to give him pieces of bread but he’s not having any of it.


Wednesday 28th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 119

30 of us are heading off to the archery bar today where we take over all four lanes. Our team wins. I have the highest female score despite much protesting from Paul about bouncing arrows…?!


Thursday 29th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 120

It’s Karen’s birthday today, so after Spanish lessons we take her her present and head out to the Cava bar.

Steve with his daughter from ‘Magellan Cloud

Jackie, Steve and Emily from Magellan Cloud come too. After much cava we decide that it’s such a lovely day we should all have a game of Pétanque. There’s a couple of pétanque courts in the central reservation of a large road nearby. We bring the balls, Paul and Karen bring the Ricard. It’s a lovely two hours spent in the Sun drinking and playing games while the rush hour traffic speeds by.

We think we might have another toilet situation…


Friday 30th January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 121

Our clean shiny bilges…

Yes we have another blocked toilet situation, we thought that we had a problem last night. We now have raw sewage in the bilges.

What a stink…!!!! We did what we could last night, but it was dark and we both had headaches after all the drink during the day.

Today we have to tackle it. We empty the cockpit locker and flush the bilges with hundreds of litres of water and Milton. Slowly the smell is going away and we end up with the cleanest bilges on the marina.


Saturday 31st January 2004 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 122

Del flies to the UK today, when he calls in he says it’s grim, dirty and that nothing works, and that really we’ve made the right decision to leave.


Friday 13th February 2004

There are a few gaps here in the diary. We have started house hunting in the south of Spain.

We are flying back to Barcelona from Malaga.

It’s Friday the 13th and we are on Iberia flight number 666…!!!!


We are both going back to the UK for a few months to do tour with The Shadows to do their Final Tour.

The Shadows – Final Tour.

The tour is a long one. Del is the Lighting Designer and H is coming along to work on the tour as a follow spot operator. Should be interesting…


Friday April 30th Scarborough

Well here we are in the Scarborough Futurist Theatre for the opening night of The Shadows Final Tour. H is doing one of the spotlights and has had a brief training from Del and has been coached in what will happen in each song including a rather complicated ‘Shazam’ which requires quick fades up and down on various band members. H is a little nervous.

The show starts and all goes well. H has a drum solo to pick up, it’s after about 5 minutes of gripping the light tight with white knuckles so it doesn’t move, that Del informs her that it’s an 8 minute long solo and she could have just locked the light off. Thanks Del.


Monday 14th June 2004

It’s the last day of the tour in the London Palladium. Cliff Richard joins The Shadows on stage for the last show. Fantastic…

Del has done a great show that has gone down very well and H is now a partly experienced follow spot operator.


Tuesday 15th June 2004 London to Manchester

Flight from London to Manchester.


Wednesday 16th June 2004 Manchester to Malaga

House hunting in the south of Spain continues…


Friday 18th June 2004

We think that we have finally found our house in Spain. We make an offer…


Wednesday 30th June 2004 Malaga to Manchester

Our offer has been accepted and we have signed the reservation contract today. We plan to fly back to our boat in Barcelona at the end of July. We think…


This is the first year of a diary that H wrote in here spare time. Yes there are lots of gaps, she did her best. The pencil writing is starting to fade 23 years in, so it was important that we memorialised our first year in Spain.

We have enjoyed our first year in Spain on our boat. Going forward the plan is to sell “Stargazer” and buy a house in Spain, and from there commute to and from Spain to work. We have become very attached to the boat and the boat life, and maybe we we have to come up with a new plan?

Christmas in Barcelona 2003

Karen, Del, H and Paul doing some archery. In a bar no less…?

We have now been in Barcelona for over two months and about to spend our first Christmas on our boat surrounded by boats and our collective of new friends. This month is also Del’s 40th birthday

Wednesday 3rd December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 66

We are flying back to Barcelona today. We’re going to have a very confused moggy on our hands when we leave.

The flight back is very bumpy and H doesn’t enjoy it at all. We get a cab from the airport to the marina as we are carrying about 20 kg of books alone.

The boat is fine, and we soon settle back in.

We get a call today from Sue and Stanley who received our Christmas card. It was nice to hear from them. They will be returning to Rome in the spring to carry on their adventure.


Thursday 4th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 67

We have a lie in this morning, but eventually we do get up as we have Spanish lessons today. We shower and grab some breakfast at the Bombeta on the way.

Later on we stay on the boat as Del is trying to rescue his computer from some technical issue. Hayley does her Spanish homework.


Friday 5th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 68

We are up very early today, it’s nice and warm under the duvet.

H visits the gym on a day pass. It’s a huge place and easy to get lost inside. There is a view of the sea from the gym. Fantastic.

She has a sauna, jacuzzi and swims in two of the three pools, one is outside in the sun.

Later we stock up with food as the next three days is holidays here. Del is installing Paul and Karen’s new computer.

Later in the day we meet up with Chris again, from Lite Alternative and his girlfriend Marina for dinner tonight. Chris was with us a few weeks ago delivering Del a lighting computer.

The piece of flooring from our boat that we were going to make into a table has been dumped by the bins. Didn’t last long. The thought of constructing scissor legs was too much for Del.

Dinner tonight is at the rather excellent Indian restaurant with Chris and Marina then to the ‘Tranny bar‘ and then the ‘Hook bar‘.

We should explain that the Tranny Bar was in fact a bar frequented by transvestites with some drag acts on stage too. They made an excellent cocktail there and it was alway a good place to go. The Hook Bar was equally good. The bar had been themed on a pirate ship. It looked and felt fantastic inside. Very cheap with a great atmosphere. Very popular. Real flame candles everywhere and draped nets… Those were the days…


Saturday 6th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 69

It was 3am before we got to bed last night, so we are up late today. Again.

We drop off Paul and Karen’s computer, and go for a coffee and breakfast on the top floor of the local museum basking in the glorious late morning sunshine.

Later we sit on the beach and discuss the future. We have been here now for over 2 months. We didn’t expect to be here for so long, but we have enjoyed it.

Del has a tour of the UK coming for work which will be for a few months. Will we want to stay here until June? Who knows? We have some thinking and decisions to make. As Stanley used to say, (from the couple Sue and Stanley), “All will be revealed in time“.


Sunday 7th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 70

Today we are planning to go to the Torre de Collserola or the Collserola Tower, a huge communications tower that you can’t miss in Barcelona, but the weather is a bit cold and cloudy, so we stay in and do a bit of house hunting on the Internet to get an idea of what kind of properties we will be available to us later next year in southern Spain.

We go out later for a walk and look around the Christmas markets followed by a couple of tapas and some beers. It’s chilly but nice with a very festive feel around the city.


Monday 8th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 71

More house hunting today.

Chris and Marina. It’s been nice to see them.

Suddenly at around midday, the boat slowly starts to rock. we get this quite often as boats go in and out a little too fast. However it gets much stronger to the point she is almost leaping in the air, straining on her ropes and tugging hard against the pontoon. We are quite concerned, so much so, that we might have to get out and get onto the pontoon for safety.

Chris and Marina join us for a brew as they are leaving for the UK tomorrow.


Tuesday 9th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 72

Coffee morning, and a long discussion about the swell problems here, one of which was last night. The bad swells were caused by the local lifeboat going out in a hurry. The sea was quite big yesterday apparently.

Later we are visited, at the boat by Paul, Karen and Jack.

Jack is not too happy being on his leash, especially as the other cats on the pontoon have now seen him in it. He has lost all of his ‘pontoon cred‘. Still it’s great to have him here on board with us.

He settles inside our bedroom on Del’s jumper.

Spanish stew tonight for dinner. Delicious.


Wednesday 10th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 73

We are going to the popular ‘Cava Bar‘ with Paul and Karen for lunch.

The cava here is dirt cheap and in the end we end up with four bottles, and some pork rolls and some croquetas between us.

We get back to the boat to recover before going out again. We are going to the ‘Archery Bar‘ tonight. It’s a place where you can get drunk, and then pick up a full-size bow, and shoot some rather sharp full-sized arrows…! Only in Spain…

Before the Archery Bar we have a rather nice Chinese dinner to strengthen our arms.

The score she says it all.

It was great fun though, nobody got hurt. We will have to return again soon.


Thursday 11th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 74

We have a lunch recommendation today for the Dolca Herminia. Sounds a bit like a handbag to us.

Great place, great food at a great price. A rare find

It’s great restaurant, just 15 minutes walk with an excellent lunch menu, lovely surroundings, and the food and very very cheap. By the time we leave people are queueing down the street waiting to get in.

We we are supposed to be Christmas shopping today, but with wine and a three course meal, it’s put us in the mood for a nap instead, so after a little walk around the town we return to the boat.

Tonight we hire a film, Gone in 60 seconds. We get a pizza and have a quiet night in with one of our bottles of Cava.


Friday 12th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 75

Today we are visited by a friend from the UK, Jason Goode and his girlfriend. They are here for just a couple of nights staying in a local hotel. We get the chance to show them around the city and have a rather expensive dinner…


Saturday 13th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 76

Its a nice day today, cool, but the sun is shining, so we decide to take a trip up to Tibidabo Amusement Park.

An interesting place with what looks like a bit of an unsafe funicular. We shall give it a go anyway…

We are not sure about this one…

The view up here is fantastic, and on such a clear, bright day we can see for miles.


Sunday 21st December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 84

Our good friend Lars and the crew have returned to Barcelona with Elton John to do a piano only version of the concert that they cancelled last month.

We have been given four tickets thanks to Lars and we take Paul and Karen along.

The concert is in Palau St. Jordi, next to the Olympic Stadium.

We’ve never really raved about Elton John, but seeing him tonight has changed our minds. He is very talented. He does a long show, 2 1/2 hours, no interval just him and a piano – some showman…!

We leave a little early to try and get a cab. No such luck. It’s also pouring down with rain Barcelona style, so we end up walking the one hour home in the rain. Never mind, it was a good night.


Monday 22nd December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 85

H wakes up early and can hear what she thinks is Paul and Karen attaching balloons to the boat. She wakes Del up in time for “The Net” our local community channel on the VHF where Karen announces Del’s birthday and tells him to look outside.

Happy Birthday…!

He sees his boat covered in 40th birthday balloons. Once dressed H offloads him onto Paul and Karen so she can get over to the cake shop sharpish.

She ordered a “congratulations” cake a few days ago in her best Spanish. She gets it back to the boat, hangs some more balloons, set a song up, and rigs some code flags saying Del 40th from the boat rigging.

She now get Paul and Karen to bring him back to the boat. He is very surprised. Peter, one of our neighbours, comes over and joins in the cake feast.

Later we have a drunken lunch at the now famous Cava Bar.

For dinner we can’t be bothered going out, so get a pizza and watch the film Terminator 2.

For his birthday Del got a Mont Blanc pen with a case. A handmade scarf, another one H started some time ago. “Zip the cat“, a stuffed toy from Jack and a sailor’s handy tool from Paul and Karen.

All in all a good 40th birthday… Happy Birthday Del…


Tuesday 23rd December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 86

Christmas is coming, and so are H’s parents. They have brought with them a home made Christmas cake.

When they arrive and get settled in we introduce them to our new collection of boat friends with whom we are going out carol singing. One of which has an electric keyboard on a shopping trolley. Very ingenious.

We are off with plenty of drinks and in fine voice as we visit all the pontoons on the marina, carol singing. Along the way we ponce more drinks and food off everyone from their boats. A very drunken, but enjoyable evening. H’s mum is especially pleased as she is given a free pass to sing as much as she likes (which is usually advised against).


Wednesday 24th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 87

A trip into town and a look around the city followed by a good dinner.


Thursday 25th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 88 (Merry Christmas!)

The marina have organised cava and nibbles just outside the loo block. It’s Christmas Day!

We meet Jack and Tan who end up being new and very good friends. The marina hold a competition every Christmas for the best illuminated boat. Owners are encouraged to cover their boats with lights, and decorate them for Christmas, and for the first time Jack and Tan came second in the competition, though we thought they should’ve been first.

There is a prize giving ceremony. Runners up get a travel bag or a Port Vell rug. Our parents must think it’s always like this here.

Soon we are off to Nou Can Tipa for Christmas lunch. We pump up our dinghy and potter off to the restaurant. We have a long table waiting for us. We are all together, which is nice. Mum, Dad, H, Del, Paul, Karen, Winnie, Mark and finally Peter. It’s a fantastic lunch finished off with a walk in the warm sun along the beach past the sun sculptures. Fabulous.


Sunday 28th December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 91

Parents leave to go home today. It has been great having them here for Christmas with us in Barcelona.


Wednesday 31st December 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 94

Today it’s the last day of 2003, and we are going over to see some American friends, Andie and Rob for a New Year spread and party games. Quite a few people are there already. After a while, and a few drinks later, we all head off to join in the action at Cathedral Square, which, when we arrive is dead! It’s empty. Where is everyone? We thought it would be crowded.

We start to hear fireworks coming from the direction of the marina. That’s life…! We are all armed with our party kit, bottles of cava, balloons, streamers, hats, and a can of 12 grapes each. It’s traditional here to put a grape in your mouth with each bong of the bells…

There are a few of us here and after a few cheers and the spraying of cava everywhere, another year passes.

This has been a good year for us. We have achieved more than we dreamed possible. Who knows what next year will hold for us.

Happy New Year!!! and best wishes for 2004. Or as they say here Feliz Ano Nuevo…

We are establishing some roots now here in Barcelona!

Out for a spin with our good friend John and his boat Marathon.

We have now been in Barcelona for nearly two months. We didn’t really expect to be here for so long, but it’s such a great place to be, and we have made a lot of new sailing friends. This month we secure a place here in Barcelona until the end of the year, a month that has seen its fair share of toilet capers…

Saturday 1st November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 37

It’s the start of the boat show today here in Barcelona.

It’s also a very beautiful day so we go out for a sail, it’s sunny and there is a slight swell to the sea. There are few show boats out being filmed.

Once we get back in we have a quick lunch and a look around the floating section in the marina of the boat show. We go on most of the Bavaria boats, a couple of Moodys and we have a look at the gorgeous Island packets. In the motorboat section there is an Elegance 90 that we have a look at just for a nosy. Wow this boat is a palace. It has a Jacuzzi, a state room, four or five bathrooms and a full sized bath. It’s beautiful, it’s also £5,000,000+ tax

Oh well, at least the knitted scarf is progressing!

No 5 million dollar boats here, bit there is nice scarf coming along.

Sunday 2nd November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 38

We are going to the boat show again today and then we’re going to go up Gran Via to see the inside part of the boat show at the exhibition halls. When we get there it’s huge, three halls of boats but not much chandlery to buy. We do buy a new mat after watching a great demo.

Bavaria have a 32 foot motorboat next to the 32 foot yacht. The motorboat is very nice, same fittings, but expensive. Strange to see them sitting next to each other.


Monday 3rd November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 39

It’s another day at the boat show today where we get lots of look arounds on boats. Some are quite disappointing such as the Grand Soleil, which has an oven but no crash bar protecting it and the inside is all made up of cheap wood. Most of the French boats are a bit disappointing, except the Dufour range, the Moody 64 and the 54.

What we did like was the Island packet the Dufors, Nautica, X-yachts, and Bavaria of course, and the Contest.

We buy some key floats. Del by a nice pink cleaning cloth!

Today we will have a Japanese lunch.


Tuesday 4th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 40

Now that we’ve seen the boat show, it’s time to have a boat sort out of our own. Today all the cupboards are cleaned out, and redundant stuff is now stashed in the storage locker in the bow of the boat.

Of course in the middle of all the chaos we get some Beer Burglars visiting. Karen, Paul, their friends Max and Sue pop round. Max is looking for a new boat so has a good look around ours. He likes it.

We get a good feng shui feeling after the clear out. It needed doing.


Wednesday 5th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 41

Just as H is flushing the loo this morning, she hears a loud splash outside. It appears that our black tank is full…! How can this be? We emptied it only a couple of days ago.

We are going to go out for a sail later anyway, so we will empty the tank then. It’s a beautiful day today at sea. We actually have our shorts on again. We open the black tank seacock and wait to see the results at the back of the boat. Nothing. It looks like the tank is blocked. Nothing we do seems to free the blockage and as usual we can’t find any pump out facilities to empty it from our deck fitting.

We are worried because we see an evening using a bucket looming large over us. Del gets some help from Paul and Max, and after a couple of hours messing around with the tank there is a comforting rush of water out of the seacock. Well done lads!!! Job done.

H goes out the the Carrefour supermarket to buy bedding and a heater. Winter is getting close…


Thursday 6th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 42

The marina have agreed to let us stay until the 7th of January 2004. Hurrah!

We have a productive day today we fit a new bulkhead section under one of the benches that will stop all the food sliding about. We go shopping for bits and pieces.

Time is getting on by the time we finish and it’s late so we pop out for a Chinese dinner. Tonight there is a marina party. They have hired the floating bar nearby, it’s a free bar for all the Cava you want and some random chestnuts. Well it is autumn.

Once again we have too much drink and fall asleep quickly once home…


Friday 7th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 43

The toilet is not working again, it’s not flushing properly, it must still be blocked, so we try pressurising the whole tank again with the dinghy pump. Nothing, we fill the tank with freshwater trying at least five or six times, and each time it comes with a spectacular brown coloured 1 m high fountain. Yuk!!! This is disgusting work.

There are loads of pieces of calcium coming out but still the main outlet is blocked. After struggling for half an hour to remove the inspection hatch on the top of the tank we manage to free it open and there, right in front of us, is a problem.

The bottom of the tank is heavily packed with with layers of calcium and sewage. It has been going on for ages we think, slowly building up until the exit hole is just completely blocked.

Del pulls on the pink Marigolds and wrestles clearing the bottom of the tank with a hosepipe getting covered in the nasty stuff, and covering the boat it all finally comes free… Well done Del…

Finally we get the boat, and Del cleaned. We Milton and sterilise everything we have touched and have a welcoming shower. Bliss… We have been doing this tank thing all day and it’s now 6 pm, it’s out for dinner.

We think we certainly deserve it today.


Thursday 13th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 49

It’s the women’s coffee morning today Karen has persuaded H to go. Against H’s better judgement, she goes along. It’s okay, mostly Americans and she gets to see some new faces, but most of the talk is about Thanksgiving.

The meeting is in a very nice setting. It’s at the top of the Museum here at Port Vell called Museum of History of Catalonia which has a fantastic full view of the harbour and parts of the city. As she is already at the Museum she gives Del a call.

We have a look around. We’ve been putting this off for weeks. It’s quite good and after we have lunch in the Bombeta or favourite lunch spot.

Tonight Karen has organised drinks on her boat for a few of us including Steve Jacqueline, and their daughter Emily. It was a good night, but also quite late by the time we leave.

Lots of fuss of Jack the Cat tonight.


Friday 14th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 50

It’s Del’s turn, and he reluctantly goes to his coffee morning with Paul. It’s full of Americans being a bit dull. When he gets back. We are ready to go out for a sail.

Today we are taking pictures of John’s boat. John is our sailing friend next door but one, and he’s looking to sell his boat. We take over 70 pictures. The sea is flat, the sun is out and John puts his cruising chute out; it’s all very colourful.

He’s very pleased with his pictures and he invites us for lunch. He takes us to a lovely fish restaurant. The food is delicious and we meet a couple of his friends, two guys who are local boat brokers.

What a fabulous lunch, but now we are feeling rather full and can only think of having a nap.

We elect to take it easy for the rest of the night.


Saturday 15th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 51

Today we have a visitor who will be staying overnight, so we clean up the boat and make up the spare room at the stern as we are expecting Chris from Lite Alternative, who is coming with a laptop that has some lighting software on it for Del. He’ll be staying the night.

He arrives at 2pm and we dine at our local favourite restaurant and then have a potter out on the boat locally with a few cups of tea.

Back in the berth the lads get sorted themselves out with the computer. Tonight the dinner is on Lite Alternative, so we find a good fish restaurant in the nearby Port Olympic.

We have a large Perrillada each, nibbles, nice wine, some cava and delicious chocolate desserts. Del and Chris have an amazingly strong Irish coffee. the whiskey layer an inch thick… Wow!

All suitably fed and watered, we make our way back to Port Vell and bed.


Sunday 16th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 52

We go out for breakfast this morning with Chris. We just have a simple tortilla and coffee, followed by a walk around the Gothic quarter of Barcelona.

Chris leaves at 4 pm to catch his flight back to the UK, so we just tidy up the boat and do nothing for the rest of the day and the evening.


Monday 17th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 53

We have had a few issues with the boat since we picked it up in May, nothing major but at midday Jim and George from Opal Marine, the agent that we purchased our boat from, turn up with all the bits. New doors, which we rejected as they’re the wrong colour and have cracked, and a new floor.

They spend all afternoon sealing and tightening up cleats and sorting things out in general, so we should have a dry night tonight at last.

There is now a pile of boat floor stacked up on the pontoon. It seems a shame to throw it all away, but some of our friends have ideas about making it into tables and refurbing boats. Before you know it it’s all gone! Steve from a boat called Magellan Cloud, take some for his floor and a table. Paul takes a piece for his table. We also keep a bit for a table.

We’ll all have matching tables.


Saturday 22nd November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 58

We are up late today so we go for a walk to freshen up. H realises that she’s not had a Big Mac in 15 years, randomly, so we decide to go and get one. It’s okay. She thinks she can live another 15 years until the next one. Del is not mad on them though, and he sits pulling faces outside the restaurant.

It appears that England have won the rugby as on our way we meet Karen carrying a rather drunken Paul. It’s now gone 3 pm in the afternoon and he’s been drinking since nine this morning so of course we buy him another beer, (sticking to coffee ourselves of course).

Del mentions that we are going out for a quick drink later and a couple of tapas and if they’d like to come along. So here we are again… Paul has recovered from his drinking and lead us straight into a pirate themed cocktail bar. This starts a slippery slope. We get to our boat late after half a bottle of wine each, then onto another bar for another cocktail, then another bar, then another bar.

It’s 1 am by the time we get back to the boat. Some quick drink that was.


Sunday 23rd November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 59

Del is up at 8:30am to fly to England today for a meeting.

H is not, she’s not up at all. She feels awful and by the time she makes it out of bed it’s 4pm.

She staggers to the corner shop to get some water. She goes back to bed. She feels awful.

Wonder why…?


Monday 24th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 60

H still feels bad this morning, but by lunch she’s feeling a little bit better, and by dinner she’s round at Karen and Paul’s boat having a tasty Mexican dinner with Jack the cat on her knee.


Tuesday 25th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 61 (2 months)

Del is coming back to Barcelona today.

It’s a beautiful day. H goes to the coffee morning with Karen, then to the beach.

Apparently it’s raining in England.

Del is back, so we celebrate by going to the the local Japanese restaurant. Fantastic.


Wednesday 26th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 62

It’s 11 am by the time we get up, we are getting so lazy. Lars a good friend of ours gives Del a call; he’s in Barcelona with the Elton John tour, but it’s been cancelled, so they’ve got a day off.

We meet up with him for coffee, beers and nibbles eventually leaving hime to go sightseeing, and we leave to get some work done.

We catch Karen and Paul having a crafty Thanksgiving quiz rehearsal on the boat Los Ramblas. We all have tea together at ours.

Tonight we watch 24 and the film KPax.

Before you know it it’s 11 pm…


Thursday 27th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 63

There are lots of Americans staying here on the marina at Port Vell, and at last today is Thanksgiving. The Americans have been leading up to this for weeks all busy baking. We have cava courtesy of the marina, canapes, spinach salad, turkey, mash, sweet potatoes with stuffing, and for dessert, pumpkin pie of course.

All very nice with entertainment provided by Albert and Pam, from the boat Los Ramblas.

All in all a very good turnout. 80 people and nine countries represented.

Our first real Thanksgiving.


Friday 28th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 64

A busy day today of washing and prepping. Tomorrow we go to England.

Burnt pizza for dinner.

We have the world’s fifth largest mega yacht parked nearby Pelorus 377 feet long wow, the tenders are bigger than us.

Pelorus. 377 feet of luxury

Saturday 29th November 2003 – Port Vell, Barcelona – Day 65

We are up early today and at the airport by 9 am.

The flight is okay and on time, but we have a windy landing back at Liverpool.

It’s grey and miserable, but back in Handforth we see H’s mum and dad and give Colin, a wonderful cat a big squeeze and cuddle. He’s lovely, but fat. He’s on a diet from now on.

Nice dinner and drinks then bed early, we’re knackered.

Del is here working for a few days. We will be back on our boat home in Barcelona in a few days. In the meantime we can get Christmas sorted out while we are here.

It’s a special birthday month…

Hayley and her “bezzie”, Natalie…

By the time this month is done, we will have been in Barcelona for over a month. During that time, we ate a lot, fixed a toilet, had a haircut, and H started knitting a scarf and caught a cold

There is no map for this month as we have become rooted in Barcelona city. We still sail, however, going out locally whenever we can and when the weather is good.

Wednesday 1st October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 6

Finally, the rain has stopped. So I set out while it’s dry and go to the Maritime Museum. It’s very good, complete with an audio headset, then have a good lunch of fish and head back to the boat for a nap. A very quiet day today, really. I have a pizza for dinner and will watch Men in Black 2.


Thursday 2nd October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 7

The sun is out, and it’s a very nice day today, so I think I’ll visit Tibidabo, the amusement park high on the hill just east of the city. It involves a Metro train, a tram and a funicular.

I wait for the tram for half an hour, then overhear from fellow tourists that the tram and funicular only run on weekends. Great…! There is one of those tourist buses here, the hop-on, hop-off type for a city tour. I decide to get a two-day ticket and see the city instead of Tibidabo.

So far, I have ridden the bus twice around the city. It’s great to have the sun on my face and wind in my hair. I visit the Olympic Stadium, Diagonal, Sants Park, Pedrera, and plenty of other places on the bus. It’s a good value ticket.

I am told that the Magic Fountain is working tonight, but it’s not; it was a load of rubbish…, so by the time I get back to the boat, it’s quite late. The new wireless wind vane has arrived. The neighbour signed for it earlier today. It looks quite good, but doesn’t do everything we thought it would, and a bit of it is broken already!

Dinner is a quick steak, bed at midnight.


Friday 3rd October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 8

I have another day on my bus ticket, so I join the bus at the Port Vell stop. It’s packed already.

I get off at Placa de Palou, a very nice area with some lovely backstreets and a huge church, Santa Maria Del Mar.

After some walking, the district turns into the Gothic El Born District, which has a huge cathedral.

My legs are still aching after yesterday’s walk, so I ride the bus and complete the north circuit just to get a rest from walking. It’s amazing how time flies, and I get back to the boat just in time to do some laundry and get back out and go and catch the Magic Fountain. It is magic…, it’s fabulous. They have choreographed it to opera. It’s daft, everyone is standing watching a multicoloured, singing fountain. The things we humans do.


Saturday 4th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 9

This morning mainly consists of shopping, washing and cleaning the boat.

Del is coming back this afternoon from his job in Benalmadena. The good news is that we are allowed to stay an extra night here.

Del finally arrives, feeling a bit worse for wear, so we just get settled in for a quite peaceful morning on the boat. It’s a nice warm day. H can’t be bothered with cooking, and as we are so near to a good Japanese restaurant, it would be a shame to miss it.

We have a delicious lunch, but it’s so easy to just pig out when there is so much sushi and dim sum coming past you constantly on a belt.

H is keen to show Del the Magic Fountains, so we hop on the bus to Plaza España. Del’s knackered, but H insists that it would be worth it, and that he must see it.

However, when we get there, it’s off… and finished… it ended at 9 o’clock.

Del is tired, so we go back to the boat, chill out and go to bed.


Sunday 5th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 10

We can’t believe our luck… Wonders will never cease. The marina has let us stay for yet another day. We have decided that the best policy here is not to volunteer that you are still here and wanting a place; from now on, we will just keep quiet, pay the mooring fee and stay put until they tell us we have to leave. We like it here. We are getting settled and feel very lucky to be ‘camped‘ in the middle of Barcelona city!

We are up quite late, so by the time we check our email and do some paperwork, it’s gone 12. Today we are going to the IMAX again, this time to see two films, “The Human Body” and “Haunted Castle“. The Human body was very good and quite amazing, but Haunted Castle was a little strange.

By the time we get back to Stargazer, it’s late, and there is not much time to go out to sea and empty the black tank, so we stay in and have dinner, a very tasty Spanish stew


Monday 6th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 11

We have a busy day ahead of us today, lots to do. We have some cheques to post. We need to call the makers of the now broken wireless wind vane, and post that back to them. We need to go to Port Olympic and also need to contact Opal Marine, the boat dealer, about warranty snagging repairs that need doing. Oh, and we still need to empty the black tank…!

We have to admit to the marina that we would like to stay another night, as we are expecting our replacement wind vane tomorrow. Good. They allow us yet another night. We finally get the boat out of the marina for a potter at about 7pm.

The wind is good, and the sea is lovely and flat. As we turn to go back in. There is a spectacular sunset over the hill of Barcelona, deep pinks and reds. By the time we finally get in and tied up, we can’t be bothered cooking and faffing about, so we go for beer and tapas in the local back street. Fantastic…


Tuesday 7th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 12

At 11 this morning, we get a knock on the door. It’s the postman with our new wireless wind vane. That was quick!

We ask Paul from Antigua Lady if he fancies having a go at mounting it for us. He is happy to oblige, and soon he is with us, armed with a harness and some tools.

It’s terrifying to watch as we hoist him up on our tiny halyard. He’s up there for a couple of hours. There are problems with mounting the wind vane due to the plate at the top of the mast. After another hour or so, he finally gets it mounted. We are so grateful to him, and we celebrate with a beer. Paul and Karen are coming to us for dinner tonight. We will have a proper Spanish paella, so it’s off to the market to buy a pile of seafood.

A very nice evening was had by all. Too much wine was consumed.


Wednesday 8th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 13

H is feeling decidedly iffy this morning. Could it be the 4 empty wine bottles we took to the bin this morning?

Oh, dear, we have breakfast out when she can stomach it, which is at 11. We also need long showers to wake up.

This morning we also find the new wind vane has packed up!!! (Not having any luck with this thing) The signal strength from the wind vane to the receiver in the cockpit is a bit weak, but we think something in the marina is interfering and overpowering it, since it works fine when we go out to Sea.

The marina is now letting us stay on a week by week basis which is a big improvement and allows us to feel more at home.

We will have another visitor tomorrow. Natalie, H’s best friend is coming to see us. It’s her birthday on the 12th…


Thursday 9th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 14

We have now been in Port Vell for two weeks, and we’ve really settled in. During the time we have been here, we have seen lots of the city, and our friendship with Paul and Karen from Antuiga Lady has grown. We have met lots of other people here on the marina, so we have become quite a little community. There is a boat next door, but one called Marathon, the owner is a chap called John Pickworth, and we have become good friends with him, so we have become rooted here, we move around like locals, and we have made Barcelona our home.

H is off to the airport today to meet her bezzie, Natalie. We are a little apprehensive about whether Natalie will like the boat or sailing, but in fact, she loves both. Once she has been shown around the boat and met some of our new friends, we go out on the boat for hours.

Natalie loves it, not only that, but we see a fantastic show of dolphins as well as baby dolphins up close, which are dancing on their tails. A good day out.

We return to the marina under a red sunset and a rising full moon. Dinner tonight is Spanish. This is followed by movie night. Tonight we will watch “Signs“


Friday 10th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 15

We all go out together to explore the backstreets of Barcelona this morning. They’re very interesting with some unusual and trendy shops. Natalie has now started dictating what the menu will be, and has decided that, tonight, we will have paella, so it’s off to the fish market to get some fishy goodies for it.

The Rambla is very busy today with all their regular weirdos of unusual buskers and artists. There are lots of these artists who dress up and pretend to be statues. Del gets a fright when a vampire statue comes alive and chases him and Natalie, grabbing her and, in one clean swoop, covering her in his cape. H knows better and hot foots it back to the boat.

A very nice evening on board. As requested…

Back at the boat, H starts work on the Paella for tonight’s dinner.

One of the jobs is to pull the insides out of the squid that we bought. Time is marching on, so there is no time for a sail today. Dinner is fabulous, a very nice evening.


Saturday 11th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 16

After a quick trip to the supermarket, we get a move on and set off for another sail. Natalie loves it. It’s busy, with boats everywhere. She finally gets a chance to helm the boat under motor and sail, and did very well at it.

There are more dolphins out today racing and bobbing about in the distance.

Back at the marina, John, our next-door neighbour but one, invites us over for drinks on his boat. We have a nosy around it. It’s beautiful inside and very big.

After a few drinks, we leave John and go to the Magic Fountain. Del and Nat are impressed with it, especially Del, who is running around like a little kid. The music tonight is Barcelona, you know the one, the one by Freddie Mercury and the lady Spanish opera singer, whose name we can’t remember.

Back at the boat, we have dinner of pasta with chorizo and Lomo (thinly sliced pork). Another Natalie request.


Sunday 12th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 17

HAPPY BIRTHDAY NATALIE… Yes, today it’s Natalie’s birthday, so Del goes out to the local bakery to get her a secret chocolate birthday cake. We sneak it back, put candles on it and then present it to her. She had no idea we’d been planning it.

John Pickworth, our new good friend and neighbour.

John, from next door, calls in and has a bit of cake and invites us back to his boat for a sail out, which of course we accept.

We all have a go at helming under sail and motor. It’s fantastic, the winds are light, but we are moving along at a pleasant and peaceful 3 to 4 kn. John takes lots of pictures of us all. A great afternoon out on the sea.

Back at the marina, we eat in again. Natalie doesn’t want to eat out at all; she just loves being on the boat all the time. Dinner tonight is steak and lentils with peppers, just like the birthday girl ordered.

A very nice day today…


Monday 13th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 18

After messing about for a bit this morning, we eventually go out into town to do a bit of shopping; however, all we manage to get was a few hooks, some CDs, and a couple of pairs of earrings.

Natalie is desperate to have her last sail on the boat before she goes. We are given our orders!

It’s a good sailing day, a force 4 wind, slight sea, but a little dreary. We tack around outside the marina for a couple of hours, but there will be no good sunset today as it is too cloudy. We head back to the marina slightly disappointed.

When we berth the boat, John is there to help us in. He has photos for us from Natalie’s birthday. We have a bottle of wine for him, which he shares with us on our boat. Later, after he says his goodbyes to Nat, we dine again on spaghetti bolognese.

Natalie is depressed about leaving.


Tuesday 14th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 19

We are up early today. Hayley is taking Natalie to the airport. We have breakfast there, then say our goodbyes. It’s been good having her. When she gets back to the boat, we get ready to go shopping again. 

We have better luck this time on our own and spend hours accumulating nine to ten bags of shopping. We are being slightly extravagant, so we eat at the local Japanese. 

It’s a relief not to have to cook. We decide to try our luck, so we go to the casino in Port Olympic. The casino is quite busy. We buy €40 of €2 chips and lose the lot at roulette despite some initial luck.


Wednesday 15th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 20

Last night it rained a lot…! Heavy, noisy rain. 

We have a new leak in the boat, which is directly over Dels’ side of the bed. 

The rain was very noisy as it banged on the GRP of the boat; neither of us slept much, and we are surprised to discover that it’s now 10:30! 

We drag ourselves out of bed and set off in search of some fresh air and breakfast. While we are out, we do some more shopping!!!


Thursday 16th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 21

We have breakfast out again today. We then go for a walk, dodging the rain as we go. It’s time for lunch. 

We find a nice restaurant near a church in the backstreets and have a Fideua. It was very nice, very tasty. We will have to come back again. 

We have eaten a lot, and it kind of knocks us out for the day, so we have to sleep it off. 

We can’t think about eating again.


Friday 17th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 22

This morning we have breakfast out again… It has become a bit of a habit. We go to our favourite place on the seafront and have a look at the sea. It’s rough, and the spray is blowing horizontally across the front of you. You can taste the salt in the air. 

We pop round to see Karen and Paul and have a cup of tea. We arrange to go out for drinks later, but of course it’s far too wet to venture out of the boat, so we postpone until another drier day…


Saturday 18th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 23

It’s raining again today, so we sit around until there is a break and pop into town for a walk. 

Tonight, we are going to an Indian restaurant nearby after a few drinks at a couple of bars with Karen and Paul. 

The Indian is very tasty, but we have both had too much alcohol again. Again. We do need to stop this…!


Sunday 19th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 24

It’s H’s birthday today… Happy birthday, Hayley… 

Del cooks her favourite breakfast, scrambled eggs with smoked salmon. She has lots of presents from Del, and from Karen and Paul. 

Unfortunately, the rain has started again; it’s heavy, so we watch one of my DVD gifts. 

The rain keeps on and on and doesn’t stop until the afternoon when we pop out for a drink and a look at the sea. 

The winds have ravaged the front. The boardwalk has been ripped up, and the beach showers are all bent over. The sea is a lot calmer now than it has been.

There are lots of surfers out now.

It’s nearly time to go out for dinner. We are going to the famous “Caracols Restaurant”, where outside, people are queuing in the streets for a table, but we have a reservation, so we walk straight in. 

The birthday dinner is great. We have the roast piglet. 

Diet tomorrow.


Monday 20th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 25

Finally, the rain that we have had for a while now has gone. It’s sunny at last, and we might even get out for a sail today.

It’s such a nice day that Karen has set up a little barbers on the pontoon where both Del and Paul get their hair cut!


Tuesday 21st October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 26

Lunch today is at the place by the church that we went to last week. Today we have a tasty lentil and squid stew. It was delicious. There are two submarines moored in the harbour with some “iffy looking” Dutch seamen aboard.

We shall have to take a look.


Wednesday 22nd October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 27

The weather is not too bad today, and we have invited Paul and Karen to join us for a sail as they are too ‘installed‘ on their berth to go out.

Of course, it chucks it down with rain just as we want to go out, but soon it clears up, and we head off out to sea.

There’s hardly any wind at first, but eventually we get 5.5 knots of boat speed. We then realise that we are dragging a large plastic bag behind us, which looks like it’s caught on our rudder. At the speed we are doing, the water resistance is too much to have a fiddle and try and get it free, so we sail back into the outer Harbour.

We are reluctant to start the engine until it is clear, so H leans over the back and manages to free a long, twisted piece of plastic off the rudder; however, the engine is vibrating a lot when we put it into gear, so we crawl back in, dead slow towards our berth and put her bow in.

Someone has to go down to investigate, and H is the only one with a wetsuit who is willing to have a go! The water is freezing at first, but after a while it’s quite pleasant, so she says. Her diving skills are not up to much, and she has difficulty getting right under the prop, but she can now see the problem: a foot of plastic sheeting is still caught on the prop.

The light is starting to fade; we will have to leave it for another day.


Thursday 23rd October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 28

It’s a nice day today, but cold. We are going to Port Aventura. It’s a Universal theme park near Tarragona. Paul and Karen are coming with us too. It’s an hour and a half to the park by train.

Del, H, Karen, and Paul go to Port Aventura.

It looks like we’ve picked a good day to go. None of the rides have queues over 10 minutes, and most don’t have any queue at all.

I must be getting older as I find the first coaster, “Stampida“, which is like the Grand National in Blackpool, quite violent and scary, and I scream my head off. Karen keeps her eyes shut all the way. Next to the mine train, followed by the dodgems, a water shoot called Sea Odyssey and the Temple of Fire, which was very hot, and of course for Del, the Teacups, which are actually quite fast, with Paul and Del spinning the cup.

A good day was had. Karen won a stuffed toy that looked like Grover from Sesame Street. It was all topped off with a fine Chinese supper back at Port Vell.


Friday 24th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 29

Back to more practical matters today. We need to get the offending plastic off the prop. Del doesn’t like H doing it, so we go and see Phone Card Bob, who does a bit of diving from time to time, but he has the flu.

We should explain that Phone Card Bob was a chap on the marina, a liveaboard, who had a reputation for selling international phone cards on the cheap.

Paul offers to do the job for us and goes in even though he has no wetsuit. A couple of seconds later, he has the rogue bit of plastic in his hand. We are very pleased, and we take him and Karen to lunch for a €7 menu del dia lunch, which is delicious. How do they do it for the money? A starter, main, dessert, bread, and wine?

A sleep is in order now for this afternoon. Later, we watched the film AI, which is a bit weird. We have sandwiches for dinner.


Saturday 25th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 30

Where’s this sun that they forecasted for today? It’s cloudy and cold but still dry, so we might still get out and look for a big, warming lunch. Of course, we find a sweet little backstreet restaurant and have a three-course lunch for a staggering €6.50. We are full again. We just never learn.

We tuck ourselves up for a sleep back on the boat and sleep most of the afternoon. By the time H wakes up, she can tell that she is coming down with a cold.

We are going out to John’s place, our boat neighbor next door but one, tonight for pizza, so despite H feeling a bit under the weather, we get ready.

John’s lives in Barcelona and has a flat in the centre of town, which is huge. We have a very pleasant evening of drinks, pizza, and good conversation. John always has lots of good stories to tell. By the time we leave at midnight, both of us are feeling very ropey.


Sunday 26th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 31

The clocks went back last night, so we get an extra hour in bed, not that it matters anymore.

H has a few extra hours in bed as she’s not feeling very good with a cold. She managed to get up for lunch, and we managed to go to our local restaurant, The Bombeta, for tapas, but she feels bad and can’t eat properly.

Back to bed for her.


Monday 27th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 32

H stays in bed again today; the cold has really got a grip on her. Del is up, and he’s not feeling as bad.

We go out for lunch, where H manages to eat a large meal. Back on the boat, it’s the usual story. We just nap.

All the jobs that need doing are being put off for now. We don’t feel like cooking, so we just pop a couple of pizzas in the oven.


Tuesday 28th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 33

Despite still not feeling very well, we were up late last night downloading loads of songs, so we’re a bit tired today. We have finally got wired internet on the boat which is a massive game changer.

The pump toilet needs fixing, so we will fix the toilet, wash the boat, and spray the bikes, as it’s a really nice day today; however, after lunch, again at the Bombetta, we have a large siesta.

There is a pattern emerging here.


Wednesday 29th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 34

Our usual dining place, the Bombeta, is closed today, so we stand a chance of getting some of our boat jobs done. Del strips down the toilet and removes the suspect joker valve in question.

Del on toilet duty. Again…

No wonder the toilet is backing up. This thing is caked in a hard lime substance. We clean it up, and things seem to be clear.

The boat is washed, but H is still feeling under the weather and flakes out, feeling worse for wear.


Thursday 30th October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 35

It’s shopping day today. We acquire a baking tray for the boat, a bath mat, some real glasses, and a mortar and pestle.

Later, we go into the town to look for a warm coat for H and a scarf. No luck, but she has an idea. Why doesn’t she knit a scarf seems easy enough, so plunging in we guess at the size of wool and the needles required.

Back at the boat, she tries to cast on. After a couple of attempts, she gets it and starts knitting with some help from the Internet. All is well until she runs out of wool, two lines in, and she has started at the wrong end.

Del can’t take the cursing, so goes next door to see Kate, another liveaboard who is an expert. She gets H off and running. It seems it might take a little longer than she thought to finish, probably next summer!

Dinner tonight is meatballs with a homemade sauce. Yum.


Friday 31st October 2003 – Port Vell – Day 36

We have a pumpkin ready for tonight. It’s Halloween, and we also have some Halloween treats in for trick and treaters, we are not sure if we will get any in the marina

H gets carving. Percy, our pumpkin, looks great when he’s finished.

Tonight we have cava, treats, and watch The Omen II with Percy. Afterwards, we pop out for a rather tasty Indian with Paul, Karen, and their visiting guests.

That scarf is coming on…
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