Food, drink, travel and everything in-between

Author: deljones (Page 8 of 9)

Week 6 – 18th to 24th January 2022

Last full week to go…!

NERJA TO EMPURIABRAVA 719 MILES

Miles traveled so far: 2602 miles

Toll costs: 6.70 euros this week

Fuel Costs: 178 euros this week

18th January – Nerja to Roquetas de Mar 83 miles

Today we are on the second day of our journey back to the UK and home. We are not too keen but needs must. After a nice one-night stay in Nerja, we are planning to do one night at Almerimar Marina east of here. They have three parking areas for motorhomes one of which has a great view looking over the marina. The drive east along the coast is wonderful. No wind, at last, clear blue skies and a temperature of 15 degrees. The motorway here is quite high in the hills so the views out to sea are amazing.

Off grid in Roquetas de Mar

An hour or so later we are in Almerimar, however, after speaking with the reception they are full and the only space that they can offer is next to a high concrete wall covered in graffiti. We move on. Hayley finds us a free stop right on the beach in the town of Roquetas de Mar. After a 30 minute drive, we arrive at our destination.

It is so full of motorhomes, there must be over 100 vans here all parked up along the beach.

The number of vans is less dense as you drive further away from the town which we do and eventually, find a spot between two French vans with a perfect side-on view of the sea. Beautiful and FREE!!

We polish off a pile of fruit and soon the bikes are off the back and we are away for a good cycle ride along the promenade. What a lovely day, perfect in fact.

After a good hour or so we return to Jess, put the bikes back on to the back of Jess, grab our beach chairs, some beers and make our way to the water’s edge to take advantage of the late afternoon sun.

19th January – Roquetas de Mar to Palamares 76 miles

Last night was a quiet peaceful night. Just before bed, we saw coming up over the sea, the biggest, fattest moon rise ever. It was stunning.

This morning we are up early and we see an amazing sunrise over the sea. Just in time for breakfast!

Most of our stops have been in campsites where, for a fee of between 15 and 35 euros, you get a pitch to yourself that has an electricity point, facilities to fill up your fresh water tank with water, empty your grey water tank and of course, clean out the chemical toilet. 

Our freshwater tank can hold 100 litres plus 20 for the hot water tank.

The grey water tank, which for those of you who don’t know is the water from your kitchen, bathroom sink, and shower, holds 100 litres.

The chemical toilet is a 20-litre portable cassette tank.

Full van service with Del dealing with the chemical toilet in the background!

If we use all of the above carefully we can manage without a campsite for 2 possibly three days before something needs to be dealt with and in our case, it’s usually the chemical toilet. The chemical toilet is an interesting device. Inside the van’s bathroom, it looks like a normal toilet but under the seat is a box that collects everything. There is a meter on the toilet that tells you when it’s full! Nice. Then it’s Del’s job to take the box out, from the outside, at the back of the van through a lockable flap and take it to the facility in the campsite and empty it, wash it out, and stick a little blue bag inside that disinfects and deodorises the box.

As for the shower, kitchen and bathroom, well it’s just like home, except there is a large 100-litre used water tank under the van which has a lever that is pulled to open a valve on the tank and the grey water just floods out. Most campsites have a grid or drain that you drive over to empty this tank.

Like yesterday we are going ‘off grid’ which means we find a spot, stop and stay overnight. As long as the right tanks are full and empty and the toilet fresh we can do this for possibly up to three days. The van has a solar panel, on the roof to keep the batteries charged so the lights stay on. We have two LPG gas bottles for cooking, heating, keeping warm, and running the fridge freezer.

Tonight’s stop

We find a nice spot right on the beach at Palomares. We stopped here on the way down but at the campsite. It was magic today. The spot was ideal. The weather is just fine, sunny but cool at around 5 pm. We have Jess facing the sea which is calm and just so beautiful to look at. We get our chairs out and just sit in the afternoon sun with a beer, chatting the time away until the chill forces us inside. We get the heating on, close all the blinds, music on, lights down and it’s just perfect. A truly calming and peaceful place to be by the sea.

20th January – Palomares to Mar Menor 81 miles

Our two days ‘off grid’ have been great, our freshwater tank is still just under half full and that’s after washing up dinner and breakfast and two showers last night. Batteries are still full and we always have plenty of gas. Breakfast this morning is bacon and avocado sandwiches. The avocados were from the campsite in Nerja and are without a doubt the best we have ever had. They are large and very hard, but if you leave them for about two or three days they ripen to be the best avos ever!!

A lot of the rural areas around here have traffic calming ’speed humps’ which are usually well signposted and well marked on the road, however not all of them. With what looked like chewed up concrete Del drives slowly but not slow enough and with a yell from Hayley to slow down or stop it was too late as Jess is bumped violently over the speed hump, so violently that the contents of the van shifted and some items in the kitchen area were thrown up so much that they crashed down onto the glass that covers the hob. The whole van felt like it had been dropped from a great height, a terrifying experience. It was so bad the fridge had panicked and an alarm started beeping that we had never heard. Del continued to drive slowly and carefully until we could get to a service area or anywhere to park up to check that the van was ok.

“What’s under here then?”

A good long inspection was made under the van and inside to look for any damage. It truly was a very violent and terrifying sensation to feel our home being battered by what looked like just battered concrete but was in fact the highest speed ramp EVER! Also, motorhomes amplify any kind of lump and bump on the road, so if you are not used to hearing or feeling it then it can feel frightening.

Today we are doing a 1 and half hour drive to the Mar Menor to a campsite right next to a Spanish airforce base. Not as bad as it sounds. This is where the Spanish equivalent of the Red Arrows (Eagle Patrol) train.

All-day flight training next to the camp!

Our pitch is excellent at the Camping Mar Menor campsite In fact this is probably the best site we have been on this trip.

Everything we need is here as well as an excellent restaurant, so after some laundry and a van clean up we get changed and make for the restaurant where we have an exceptional two-hour late lunch, pricey but well worth it, so much so we have decided to do dinner here tomorrow turning a one day, overnight stop into two night!

Tomorrow is bike day. The Mar Menor is quite an impressive area so we will spend tomorrow getting out and about and exploring while watching the jets training as we go.

21st January – Day 2 Mar Menor

Exercise day today. We get the bikes down from the back of the van and set off along first along a wooden constructed pathway that weaves through the nature reserve.

The pathway is built on stilts with useful viewpoints and stops to check out the local wildlife. Soon we are on the main promenade that provides us with a smooth, flat cycle ride for quite a few miles. Turning back we stop for a quick drink before continuing back then past the campsite for another few miles in the opposite direction. The weather is splendid although rain is expected later. In all we cycled about 14 miles in tota, it was great to get out and burn some calories.

Tomorrow we are expecting to be in the province of Valencia in a newish campsite in Alcalà de Xivert in Valencia called Los Olivos.

22nd January – Mar Menor to Alcalà de Xivert 234 miles

It rained last night, as forecast, and we have woken up to quite an angry sky. Thick black clouds are moving in around us. Time to get a move on and move north where the weather is supposed to be a little better. Today’s stop will be in the Valencia area, a good 2 and a half hours north. We leave the campsite after a full service and snake our way around the airport permitter to get to the motorway north.

We like to keep the van well topped up with fuel. You never know when your plans will change so we have rule that once the van is half full, which, is about 45 liters of fuel, we stop and fill up. This normally costs between 45 and 50 odd euros depending on how much the pump price is.

We are half full so time to pull in and get some diesel, and while we are at it we should top up with LPG as the nights are getting colder and we should keep our gas supply full. We pull into a garage outside Valencia, all seems fine. The forecourt attendant does his thing, but what’s this? 70 liters has been dispensed, 100 euros worth. Our tank only holds 90 liters and we are only half full. What’s going on here? We fear that there must be a calibration issue with the pump it’s just impossible that we have the space for so much fuel. There is no fuel on the forecourt so if 70 liters was dispensed, where has it all gone? We filled up yesterday and have driven half a tank’s worth of miles since. It’s a mystery.

We feel that we have been ripped off to the tune of 30 euros, so an hour later after complaining and filling in forms at the filling station we leave feeling well and truly stung and in a foul mood.

Now, what…? After about 5 minutes into our journey, we notice the fuel gauge is saying no fuel, and the reserve light is flashing. We only just filled up, filled up with more than we needed!!! What’s going on? We cautiously drive on and find a spot to park. Del takes a look under the van to find the fuel tank covered in diesel and some drips coming from the tank. A quick clean up and we set off again. After another few miles we pull in, reset the ignition and now the gauge is saying full. That’s more like it. Del gets under the van to check the tank. It’s dry. something very odd has happened here. Did the garage cause some damage? Did the hard knock on the speed hump yesterday do something? We just don’t know.

We always take turns driving and it was Hayley’s turn to do the last hour to Los Olivos. Her driving experience is much much more than Del’s. She’s an excellent driver, however, it’s quite disturbing the amount of middle-aged to elderly men that stare at her when she is behind the wheel. It’s quite intimidating. She is a competent driver…, oh right it’s because she is female…, oh and she’s driving a 3 and a bit tonne motorhome. “she shouldn’t be doing that.” It’s strange to see. We have gone through many old French & Spanish towns with Hayley at the wheel only to be follow-stared at as we pass. It’s an age/generation thing maybe? Odd all the same.

We finally arrive at Los Olivos tired and in a foul mood to be greeted by a nice girl who gives us a comfortable pitch at this lovely campsite that has the best bar and dining room ever seen on a campsite.

Today has been long. Very long. Stressful and not one of the best. Oh well. We cheer ourselves up with a hot shower and a few games of pool and beer or two. Del gets thrashed by Hayley 4 – 1. It’s Saturday night and we are the only people in here.

Del has placed a bunch of paper towels under the tank on the pitch. Let’s see if there is a leak overnight. Smells of diesel inside the van though.

23rd January – Alcalà de Xivert to Torroella de Montgrí 225 miles

We have both had a really bad night’s sleep. Probably the worst yet, and today we have another long trip ahead of us. No fuel drips on the paper towel this morning. The fuel gauge is still showing full, so off we go.

More issues… After driving for two hours the fuel gauge is still showing full. It’s not right, we have used probably a quarter of a tank since yesterday’s disastrous fill-up. Hayley does some maths and we can guess within 10 liters or so how much fuel we have, when we need to stop and how much we should put in.

Today we are heading for the Costa Brava. We like it here. It’s a lovely part of Spain and we are staying at a farm. Apart from the dodgy fuel gauge, there is no evidence of a fuel leak and we have discovered that the range computer is showing what we consider to be the right amount of miles before running to empty. We have also noticed that the fuel gauge has moved from full and has started to go down. It’s showing 25% more than what the range is, so clearly, there is an issue, one that will have to wait to deal with when we get home. We will still manually calculate the usage.

The farm in Torroella de Montgrí is perfect. We are greeted by donkeys and chickens, the pitch is lovely and we settle in quite quick.

We take a walk around the town. For years we have been coming to this area for the summer holidays. We have cheered up a lot since yesterday, why wouldn’t you? None of it really matters. We got here safe and the van is in good shape apart from maybe a poorly fuel gauge. We shall see when we are home.

After a short walk around this lovely town, we end the day with dinner in Jess with low lights and music.

It’s cold here. We are expecting zero degrees overnight!

24th January – Torroella de Montgrí to Empuriabrava 25 miles

It was so cold last night, but we didn’t feel it in the van. It was warm and toasty.

Breakfast was a short and simple affair followed by a full van service as tonight we may go “off-grid” again so we need to make sure that everything is topped up and emptied! It’s a cold morning but we have blue skies and sun which is warm and bright. Usual story here though, by 5 pm it will be freezing cold…

The drive north through the Costa Brava is very pleasant. Lovely countryside.

This area, known as Empuries, has preserved a lot of Roman history, we are not visiting any today but we have in the past and if you are ever in the area, it’s a big thumbs up. The museum at Empuries is a must-see.

We know this area very well from past holidays and we have been here before in Jess. The last time we were here was with Jess on her second outing. We are going to the same place which allows vans to stop overnight and sure enough, when we arrive it is already populated with a good 8 vans.

Empuriabrava is a network of canals.
Fine supermarket dining

We pick a spot and get settled in. Time for lunch so we get the bikes off the back and cycle down to the seafront of Empuriabrava in the Bay of Roses which is spectacular. Sadly today we couldn’t find anything suitable, however, we did remember that a supermarket near our camp spot has a fantastic restaurant outside, which sounds odd.

Imagine Asda or Tescos having a fantastic restaurant? Unlikely but here it’s true.

The Montserrat Supermarket has a sunny terrace and does serve excellent cheap food.

An hour later we are sitting in the afternoon sun enjoying some tapas followed by half a chicken and chips with a cold beer and wine.

Tomorrow we are crossing the border back into France. It’s getting very cold at night now, the days are still sunny, but how long will it stay that way?

Week 5 – 11th January to 17th January

A poor weather week but with a great ending!

MANILVA TO LA LINEA DE LA CONCEPCION THEN BACK TO NERJA 134 miles

Miles travelled so far: 1883 miles

Toll costs: 10.2 euros this week

Fuel costs: 47.00 euros this week

11th January – Day 4 Manilva

There is a change in the weather, it’s windy, very windy. The sea is starting to look and sound rough but the sun is still out even though the clouds are starting to gather.

After breakfast today we are off for a bike ride, not far just a short one to find a good seafood restaurant for lunch. We find one and it’s brilliant, a lovely place with nice friendly staff.

After a good feed and a bottle of cold rose right next to the sea, we cycle back, it’s late afternoon and the air is getting cooler as it usually does at around 4:30. Hot tea and the heating on in Jess soon sort that out.

Movie night tonight is an excellent film about two scientists that find that an asteroid is going to hit earth in six months but have difficulties convincing everyone. Far far better than it sounds, great fun and quite thought-provoking. Don’t Look Up. Well worth the time.

The wind is really blowing hard now. The van is being pushed about and it is noisy. A bad night’s sleep. Oh well.

12th January – Day 5 Manilva

Not a good night last night, very little sleep thanks to a vicious Levante wind. The Levante wind was one of the winds that used to plague us as sailors. It blows hard for several days from the east and can be very unpleasant. We always did our best to make sure that we were tucked up in a marina before it blew in.

It’s windy all day with the odd shower of rain. The weather has changed dramatically and we are expecting it to be this way now for a few days with more rain forecast from tomorrow. 

It’s a day in today, which is unusual as we like to either go for a walk or get the bikes out, but with the unsettled weather, it doesn’t happen. But what’s this, the clouds have cleared away and despite the wind it turns out to be a beautiful afternoon, warm in the sun. We hurry out on the bikes to a local tapas bar for two or three tapas and a small cold beer, then we are off for a good cycle. It was smashing, a warm, sunny afternoon and well worth it.

Movie night tonight is Revolutionary Road. A definite watch. About a couple and their endeavour for “life” blimey!

13th January – Day 6 Manilva

Despite the howling wind and odd rain shower last night, we slept really well, best in a while. The weather today is brutal. The wind is even stronger than yesterday, we estimate a force 7 which is about 38 mph. Breezy. We are getting regular rain showers and the sea is very rough and noisy but quite spectacular to watch.

Big move today. Massive. We have to move three pitches down. We extended our stay here but had to move to another pitch. The new pitch has a good sea view and a little bit of wind shade. You can get fed up with the noise of the wind, and we are at that stage now. It’s been unrelenting all day every day for the past three days, which might not sound much, but when you are in it…!

The freshwater tank needs a fill-up, so Del sticks the hose in the side of the van to fill the tank and wanders off to do something else only to be called in 5 mins later by H with news that there is water in the living quarters of the van… Yikes! The tank has filled but because the pressure was too high and an effective seal was created on the intake hole, the cap of the tank had leaked and started to run into the van.

We had to effectively rip the living area apart and do a full mop out, no damage just water to mop up. It was a good opportunity however to clean out areas that we can’t normally get to of a few years of dust. Nice. Within 30 minutes everything was cleared up and dried and there was no evidence of any mishap. Lesson learnt: don’t have the water pressure too high when filling up and more importantly don’t leave it filling up unattended. Simple.

Smashing lunch at the same Indian restaurant the other night, this time we went over the correct bridge! Brilliant.

Movie night tonight is Annihilation. About a force field thing that takes over the earth. Some army women are sent in to find out what’s going on. Some die. Not brilliant we know but you can’t knock a coconut down every time.

14th January – Day 7 Manilva

Tasty Bellota Iberico ham

More wind which just goes on and on. Oh and more rain. We manage a walkout and buy some expensive Bellota ham: regarded as the best ham in Spain. The pigs are acorn-fed to produce high quality, good tasting ham. It can be pricey, but we buy a small amount just to try it and can definitely taste the difference.

Despite the wind, we manage to find a restaurant and have a paella (again) outside in a little windbreak in the brief sunshine. It was smashing.

All in all a very wet, cold and windy day. It’s so windy!

15th January – Day 8 Manilva

We are not sure if we have mentioned it but it has been very windy and wet here. Today it is still the same.

We have a small shower leak now, it’s only a little one and it always depends on how much slope there is on the van when we are parked up. A local hardware shop has all we need. A strip of plastic and some silicone and a silicone gun. Back at the van, we get the repair done and leave it 24 hours to cure.

Manilva was supposed to be the place where we were supposed to get the best weather, right down in the south of Spain, in a lovely site, right by the beach, however, the reality has been far from that. Out of the 8 nights, we stayed only three days were good weather, the rest were dreadful with strong winds and sometimes heavy rain and cold! No matter it’s all part of it. For our last night, we go to the Indian restaurant across the dangerous road. What a great dinner we had there. Best Indian EVER!

16th January – Manilva to Linea De Concepcion 21 miles

Tomorrow is the day when we need to turn around and give ourselves a good two weeks to get back to the UK, sure you can do it in less but we want to take our time and see more.

Planning our home route

We have had long conversations about what route back we should take. We have a Euro Tunnel ticket from Calais to Folkstone as well as a ferry from Santander to Portsmouth.

Do we go back the way we came, or do we go up the middle of Spain? We looked at going back through Portugal but they have strict Covid testing requirements so that’s probably not going to happen. Things have calmed down a little in France, some restrictions have been lifted so we decide to go back the way we came.

Today however we are going to La Linea de Concepcion which is on the land border between Spain and Gibraltar. We have been trying to find out what, if any, the requirements are for testing for covid etc, but it’s hopeless. Unless you are flying in from the UK then any information is hard to find, for a UK citizen on foot going from Spain into Gibraltar for a lunch then going back again on foot into Spain the information is non-existent.

The rock of Gibraltar

The weather has improved greatly so off we go, leaving windswept and rainy Manilva, in fact, it’s a lovely day and after about an hour and a bit, we are settled into a great campervan parking place with a view of “The Rock”. Separating it from us is the Gibraltar airport runway. An odd arrangement.

Del gets talking to a British couple and asks if they know anything about what the requirements are to get into Gibraltar. It appears you need nothing but your passport, so armed with said documents we do the short walk to the border and sure enough, all that happens is customs say ‘hola’ stamp your passport and you are done!

The high street in Gibraltar is a bit disappointing really, so after a splendid typical Sunday turkey roast lunch, we get a taxi tour.

For 25 euros each they will take you on a tour for about 45 to 60 minutes. Our driver, called Chris who was Spanish but spoke the most perfect English, drove us around the main tourist spots of Gibraltar. It was brilliant and well worth the money. Chris was fantastic and provided us with a history lesson as we drove around, stopping at some wonderful views of the Straits of Gibraltar with a clear view of North Africa and southern Spain.

Going higher he took us to see the famous monkeys of Gibraltar, the Skywalk and to see the first-ever cannon that the British placed when they took Gibraltar from the Spanish in 1704. (See we paid attention to our guide).

A wonderful afternoon, finished off with a cold beer in the marina, we head back across the border, after watching a plane land at the airport and back to the van for a peaceful night sitting in the front seats with the blinds open and watching as the north side of the Gibraltar rock face is lit up. Beautiful. All in all a great day.

17th January – Linea De Concepcion to Nerja 116 miles

Today is the turnaround day. A day we don’t like to see but it has to come at some point. Today we are leaving our place on the Spanish, Gibraltar border, and more or less retracing our steps back to Calais to make our crossing on the 30th of January.

It was a great day yesterday and back at the van the night started peaceful enough, however by early morning the wind had built up once again and was giving Jess a bit of a battering. Breakfast, clear up and we are off by 10 am. H is doing all the driving today.

A chatty parrot always welcomes you at the campsite.

We are going back to Nerja and to the campsite with the avocado trees. We liked it there, but we are only doing one day. We have to pass Manilva, the place where we were basically windbound for 5 days! It’s a lovely day today once we get away from the wind in Gib. Blue sky no wind and a very pleasant morning drive along the coast.

The chap at the Nerja campsite recognises us and we are checked in quite quick however our pitch is somewhat in the shade this time. No matter, we are not here for long and as soon as we are settled and a little sit in the shade, we are off to a place where we enjoyed a rather splendid lunch by the sea a couple of weeks ago.

Lunch was fantastic, just sitting in the sun talking about our immediate travel plans and our long term future plans.

Full of food and wine we do the 20-minute walk to the van for showers and a very comfortable and peaceful night in. On the move again tomorrow to Almerimar marina, again for a one-night stopover.

Week 4 – 4th to 10th January 2022

Time to settle down, for a while…

NERJA TO MANILVA100 miles

Miles travelled so far: 1749 miles

Toll costs: 3.30 euros this week

Fuel costs: 57 euros this week

4th January. Day 3 Nerja

Not much happening today. It’s a lovely day, so we try and do some laundry but it’s too busy so we just give up. Better things to do.

H sits and does her written Jess diary while Del spends a good hour or two brushing up on his Spanish. It’s nice here, we don’t really need to go anywhere. We have our little cosy set up by the van and while the sun shines it’s perfect.

We are surrounded by avocado trees and one of them fell off so we have brought her into the van to see how she does. They grow them here so we bought one huge one on our arrival day. We stuck her in the fruit bowl next to the bananas, which helps the fruit to ripen. We shall see.

High wind is due tonight however so we will probably have to pack up later.

5th January. Day 5 Nerja

Today is the Epiphany, apparently. Time to get all those decs and trees down and put away for another year. In Spain, it’s King’s Day eve, the day when the three kings come. This is the real Christmas day for kids in Spain, the day when they get their new Xbox or PS5. Many towns do a procession depicting the three king’s arrival on a float. When we stayed in Barcelona on the boat, we used to watch the King’s Day parade which seemed to get bigger and more spectacular each year.

What a view!

We take a leisurely stroll to Nerja along the beach, have a drink in an Irish bar that has spectacular views of the southern coastline. we make our way back, the walks have made us a little peckish.

Pre-lunch cocktail

There is a cracking little rough looking restaurant right on the beach near the campsite.

We can’t resist it. Soon we are feeding on seafood and spare ribs, helped along with a bottle of chilled rose. We know that back home the weather is not great, people are working and the news with all the talk about the virus and other stuff is pumped out just to make sure we stay miserable, but there is something quite liberating and calming about a cool drink and some good food in the sun right by the sea. Just for a moment, you forget about everything else that is happening, which can only be a good thing.

6th January Nerja to Almayate (King’s Day!)

We say goodbye to Nerja. It was a very pleasant stay but time to move on. We are doing a long trip today, all 24 miles of it! Jess is long overdue for a good wash. On the way into here, we spotted a car wash that had a platform that once your van was parked you could go onto the platform to wash the roof! Mega! Small things.

With a kind of clean van (no brushes so you can’t get stuck into all the muck, it’s just one of those high-pressure lances) we are on our way. It’s a beautiful day today. There was a heavy shower of rain last night and with the wind, the air is clean and fresh. With the sea on our left and the sun shining from a deep blue sky, we are heading west now along the Spanish coast.

One of Spain’s unofficial symbols is the “toro” or bull and there is one just outside our campsite.

Many of you may have seen it at some point on holiday or on TV, some people have a sticker of him on the back of their cars It’s the silhouette of a bull and they can be found on hills around Spain. These 14m tall and 4-tonne bulls were placed there by the drinks company Osborne many years ago and the government later decided that they should all come down. But after a public outcry to keep them there are about 90 left in Spain. You can see the full history here during your next tea break!

We arrive at the Almayate Costa Campsite. It’s a bit like a car park, everyone is rammed in, it’s not full but the vans that are here are really close-quartered. We choose a spot which is nice and close to everything we need, including a very short skip and a jump to the beach which is amazing. It’s long, clean and empty!

Jess is given some extra TLC with a clean cloth, basically what was not done properly at the car wash.

Jess all polished up!

Time to check out this long beach that’s on our doorstep.

7th January – Day 2 Almayate

We are on our last day here. It seems to be getting warmer so after a short late morning walk into Almayate town, which doesn’t offer much (the whole area around here is agriculture) we pack a few things and head for the beach.

It’s very pleasant, not too hot, very slight cool edge but very nice. We spend a good hour on the beach, head back to the van and sit in the afternoon sun. H reads, Del updates the blog.

Tomorrow we are moving on to Manilva which is an hour and a half drive along the south coast where will set up and stay for 8 days. Lots to see and do around there hence the longer stay. We shall see.

We have acquired a friend here.

A duck. Yes, a duck. It seems he walks around the campsite clearly making friends that will feed him. He’s quite a large duck as a result. Del can’t help it and feeds him bread. Soon the friendly duck is following him back to the van for more. Later in the day when Del pops out, he’s there waiting just outside the van. He’s very tame, friendly and fat!

Oo la la!

Dinners are sometimes themed on Jess, we don’t know why, but we pick a country and eat and theme the van with music etc.

Tonight is French night so it’s entrecote, potatoes, green beans and a tasty pepper sauce, oh and a Spanish red wine! (what?). French traditional music is provided by Spotify! A great night. (We didn’t want to eat our confit duck, that we bought in France, tonight with our friend waddling about outside!)

8th January – Almayate to Manilva 85 miles

Another clear blue sky to wake up to today, it’s expected to reach 18 degrees today which is perfect, it just doesn’t last. By 4 pm each afternoon, the chill is just starting to come in which leads us into quite a cool night.

We are packed up and ready to go on a journey heading west along the Spanish coast, but first we have to do our usual shop, supplies are starting to get low, so we head for an Aldi which has become our supermarket of choice in Spain. Very good, very cheap!

Self service bread cutting in Aldi!

A very pleasant and thankfully uneventful drive. The coastline and towns start to have an American feel to them. The main A7 road runs along here so it’s quite busy, with lots of apartment blocks and shopping areas. If you have ever driven out of Los Angeles to go north up the coast, then it’s a bit like that. In the sun it looks great and with the windows down it was a lovely drive.

The campsite at Manilva is called the Camping La Bella Vista. A nice place. It’s a ‘corporate’ campsite, meaning that everything is immaculate, not a blade of grass out of place, with a gleaming reception area. Everything has to be paid in full in advance and you are given reams of paper telling you what the rules are, it’s a big contrast to the other campsites that we have been to. It’s nice though and our pitch is perfect. We are here now for 8 days. The sun is on us for most of the day, and we can see the sea, everything is on the pitch: power, clean water and you can empty your grey water tank as well. All good.

Once settled in we take the very short walk to the beach to check it out. It’s quite spectacular. Looking out to sea we can make out Gibraltar and north Africa on our right and the Spanish coastline weaving away to our left. The recent wind and rain have meant the visibility is clear and the air fresh. Lovely.

H with a makeshift rolling pin

Another themed dinner night. Italian night. The works though. 4 courses: antipasti, pasta, homemade pizza, salad and dessert. Blimey!

Finally…!

9th January – Day 2 Manilva

Time to get some exercise done after the big Italian night. We get the bikes down, for the first time this year, and we cycle along the promenade for a couple of kilometres. It’s another one of those Spanish holiday weekends so everyone is out making the cycle ride more of an obstacle course than proper exercise. It’s very good though to see everyone out and about. The restaurants are full and the sun is shining. It’s another lovely day.

We get a bit fed up with weaving about, trying not to run children down and finally decide to settle into a little bar right on the front for a small cold beer and take the opportunity to call home and speak to some friends and family.

Tonight is Indian night. Not on the van. There is a very highly regarded Indian restaurant across the road from the campsite. We’ll pay that a visit, as it’s so close.

Dinner, here we come!

The campsite is on the main N-340 road, a very busy 4 carriageway road and the restaurant is just across that road, you can smell it sometimes from the campsite, you can see it all bright and welcoming, but you can’t just cross the N-340 with traffic flowing at 70 mph.

H finds a bridge so off we go, up, over and down to… nothing! It goes nowhere. Google shows a dirt track going back towards the restaurant so off we trot. Bad idea. Soon we are covered by large vegetation taller than us and after 5 minutes of trekking through this, we are brought to an abrupt stop by a small river. Great!

Not what we expected

We retrace our steps and find another bridge, further down the fast N-340. By now our appetite has truly been sharpened. Once again we go up, across and down, this time with success! Ten minutes later we are in the very nice Indian restaurant which was well worth the 45-minute trip ‘just across the road’.

The food was excellent, great service and not too expensive. They do a very nice cheap lunch here, so we will be back during our stay. The walk back to the van felt long but soon we are settled in. It’s very windy tonight, the van gets rocked about a bit but it’s nice in Jess.

10th January – Day 3 Manilva

At last, the wind has died off to leave us with a stunning day. 19 degrees, clear blue sky. The morning is spent updating blogs: this one and H is doing a written one.

Beach day today. It has to be.

Jess is filled up with fresh water, grey tank emptied. However, Del has to do the chemical toilet, Nice. Then off we go on the short walk to the beach…

We spend a good two hours there, today is to be the best day as windy and cloudier weather is coming in, so we take advantage of it while we can.

Movie night tonight is Jimmy Carr – His Dark Material, not really a film. Good fun though, refreshing non PC humour which we could do with a bit more of today certainly not less.

Week 3 – 28th December to 3rd January 2022

A very happy new year to you all. We hope!

PALOMARES – NERJA: 157 MILES

Palomares to Nerja

Miles travelled so far: 1649 miles

Toll costs: NONE this week

Fuel costs: NONE this week

28th December. Day 3 Palomares

It’s another bright, sunny day and warm. Today we shall have our breakfast outside. Yes outside, at the end of December!

We thought that we might take a walk into the town of Palomares, which is only 10 to 15 minutes away. As expected we arrive in the main square which is dominated by a large terrace belonging to a tapas bar.

While we are here we need to find a ‘ferreteria’ or hardware shop. Spanish hardware shops are brilliant, they are an Aladdin’s cave of everything you can think of. We buy a pair of hosepipe adapters, always useful. Some PTFE tape to bind up our leaking sink, amalgamating tape because it’s useful and finally a set of small Tupperware containers because Hayley likes them.

Fiduea for lunch

Satisfied with our purchases we make for the terrace in the square and have an excellent coffee before the walk back to the van. We drop off the hardware goodies and take a walk to the beach that has a beach bar where we thought we would enjoy a small cold beer in the sun.

After spending two hours and 50 euros on lunch we take a nice long stroll along the beach and discuss our future life plan. Yes very deep.

The walk along the beach and back to the van was very pleasant, once back we drank lots of water and just relaxed in the late afternoon sun.

No dinner tonight after the long heavy lunch, but we ended the day with a movie night and watched “The Boy in the striped pyjamas“. A great movie if a little depressing.

29th December. Day 4 Palomares

What a beautiful morning, slightly cooler than yesterday but that doesn’t stop us from having breakfast outside. It’s a lovely morning, perfect for a piece of tortilla and tomato bread. Delicious.

Today we intend to get some more exercise. We made a pledge to try and either get a good long walk in or a good few miles of cycling every day, weather permitting of course. Today we will get on our bikes and cycle to the next town of Villaricos. It’s a great cycle, the sun is shining and the sea on our right looks amazing. A perfect day.

Villaricos is a tiny fishing town of over 600 people with some spectacular views from the front. The town itself is quite charming so we stop in the town square and have a lovely Spanish coffee.

We love Spanish coffee. It’s the right amount, tasty and cheap unlike the overpriced soup bowl size cup of hot water with burnt grit that most coffee shop chains serve up. In most Spanish cities you can find a famous coffee chain, they never look full and we can understand why with so many cafes selling good local coffee – why you would go in?

The cycle ride back was just as pleasant as it was going to Villaricos. Except we take a few detours to see more of the local area. Back at the van, we take it easy before taking a good walk to the beach bar for a refreshing drink, maybe a cocktail in the afternoon sun.

After 3 large plates consisting of patatas bravas, calamari and ‘puntillas’ (baby squids), helped along with a glass of wine and a cold beer, we decided that the afternoon cocktail went well!

A perfect day today. Breakfast in the sun, plenty of exercise followed by a big feed instead of a cocktail and back to the van for another movie night. Tonight the film “Life” which is all about an intelligent life form from Mars that looks like a squid and kills everyone. It was actually better than it sounds.

Tomorrow we are moving on after a very nice four day stay here at Palomares.

30th December. Palomares to Castell de Ferro – 124 miles

Another bright but cool morning. No breakfast on the van today. We packed up outside last night and we are off by 9.30 am. First stop, a supermarket to stock up, it’s the penultimate day of 2021. Let’s get this year out of the way!

There is quite a fog here today and it’s chilling the air. Once the shop is done we get a move on.

We are heading for a small town called Garrucha where we will park in the marina car park for breakfast. This marina was a welcome sight years ago when we sailed up and down the Spanish coast. It’s the first big marina for miles after the Cabo de Gata (the bottom right corner of Spain) and they always squeezed us in after a punishing sail so we are very fond of the place. Nothing much had changed over the 12 years since we were last here except maybe a little fresh paint here and there. The fog is following us south as it soon thickens up here too, and it’s getting chilly. We get going and soon we are at higher altitudes and bright sunlight. The temperature peaks at 23 degrees which is perfect. The passing scenery is quite spectacular.

Our next stop is Almerimar. A town on the south coast of Spain, 90 or so miles east of Malaga.

There is a marina here where we used to keep our boat when we lived down here some years ago. The place has come on with new buildings going up and it’s quite a bustling place. We park up on the outer harbour which gives us a spectacular view east and west, and looking north a breathtaking view of the snow-covered tops of the Sierra Nevada mountains north of Granada.

Snow on the Sierra Nevada

On the move again to our final destination of Camping Huerta Romero. The site is located in the middle of a small town called Castell de Ferro. It’s a bit… well… a bit like a commune. There are campers who look like they have been here for years, a lot of unshaven men with buns in their hair and tie-dyed trousers. The site itself is charming though with lots of trees and shade, not that we need it right now. Each plot is like a private garden.

Jess tucked in for a few days

Lovely. We set off for a walk to the stony beach. Guess what? The fog is rolling in again. What’s going on?

A short walk back to the van through the town, which, not to be unkind, doesn’t really offer much. Tomorrow we will give it another go. It might look and feel different in sunlight. If we ever get it that is.

31st December – Day 2 Castell de Ferro

Last day of 2021…

No sun this morning. It’s 100% grey and still with a slight chill. Guess the town won’t look any different from yesterday after all.

A foggy day in Castell de Ferro

Two people living, eating and sleeping on a van that is just shy of 6m means that you have to clean more often, so, despite the poor weather and the lack of town, (you can’t even cycle here) we get on with some cleaning jobs and do some more laundry.

Del sets off for a walk along the local beach for an hour, H stays with Jess and attempts a repair to the leaky sink which has eluded us for some days. Numerous attempts have not stopped the leak. Despite her efforts, it is still leaking. Del has a go next, once back from his walk. This time lashings of PTFE tape and amalgamating tape. That’ll fix it…?

The rest of the afternoon is taken up discussing the future, where shall we go, how do we do it and for how long.

Can’t get enough of these paellas!

Hayley does one of her excellent paellas for dinner which was later than usual. Tonight we have a rose cava on standby to bring in the new year.

After dinner, we take a stroll into town which is… dead! We are the only ones in town apart from a group of five youth on mobile phones. We head back to the van, a little disappointed and take in a quick movie. Tonight it’s a French film called “Oxygen” about a woman who is woken up from a cryogenic state to find (spoiler alert) she’s a clone in outer space. It was better than it sounds. Very good in fact.

With midnight approaching we grab a couple of glasses and bring in 2022 with a cold glass of fizz and a packet of crisps. Excellent. We dab a bit of fizz on Jess and thank her for getting us here. We love her very much.

Happy 2022 to you all. Here’s to a successful and healthy new year.

Happy New Year

1st January Day 3 – Castell de Ferro

The leak under the sink is fixed. Bound up in many yards of PTFE tape and amalgamating tape. Nothing will get through now. The morning starts off more or less the same as yesterday, cloudy and foggy. Del does a bit more deep cleaning of the van and by the afternoon the sun is shining and the fog has finally gone. At last. We head for the beach and sit by the water’s edge watching and listening to the gentle waves breaking. We sit for a while in silence. It’s the start of a new year.

H gets caught out paddling. Whoops!

Dinner tonight is a fridge clear out. We waste nothing, so on occasion we go through the fridge and check dates on things, if it’s getting close then we eat it. These dinners can be a thrown together hotch pitch of almost anything. It’s always good though, even if it’s all a bit of a miss-match.

Tonight’s movie, called “The Silence“. It’s about some blind birds that get released from a deep cave. They can’t see and attack humans by noise. Yeah, not the best we know. It was as bad as it sounds.

2nd January. Castell de Ferro to Nerja – 41 miles

We move on today. Hayley is not mad on it here and she is probably right when she says we won’t come back here again. Sad to say it but there’s not much here and the weather hasn’t really helped. Shame really but there you go. It was our home for 3 nights but we are glad to be moving on.

After a short van service, we are off. It’s good to be moving again. Today we are off to Nerja to a popular campsite called Camping Cortijo San Miguel. First, though we need to do a shop. You can always depend on a Spanish Aldi on a Sunday.

A short drive today and soon we are in our pitch which is quite charming, surrounded by avocado trees on either side of us, a much more open feeling compared to our last stop. The usual morning fog has lifted and it’s a lovely day.

We decide to just stay put for the rest of the day. We are here for 3 days and may extend, it’s nice, warm and peaceful here.

3rd January. Day 2 Nerja

Same old story weather-wise. It’s cold with low clouds or fog, can’t really tell anymore. No matter, today we are walking along the beach to the town of Nerja and we are going to check out the Cuevas de Nerja (the Caves of Nerja).

Wow! This is quite a place, not what we expected at all. The caves are huge with amazing rock formations all around. They hold the Guinness world record for the biggest stalactite column in the world, the hall was created by an earthquake that hit the region more than 800,000 years ago. It’s quite a sight to see.

To get there we took one of those little sightseeing trains that do a return trip to the caves and entry to the museum for just 16 euros each, well worth it.

After the caves, we get back to the town of Nerja to look for a place for a “light” lunch. As is the usual form at the moment, the fog has cleared and it’s a beautiful day.

So a little lunch by the sea would be fitting justice for a lovely day. We don’t find much in the town, there is plenty there for sure, but it’s quite busy and a little touristy. We walk back in the direction of home and find a perfect place right on the beach. It’s not long before we have an excellent Wagyu beef burger with some homemade fries which went well worth a bottle of rose wine and finished with a dessert to share. Yes very light!

The walk back home is perfect, just in time for the sun setting and the air turning chilly again.

What a lovely day. Laundry day tomorrow. Again.

Week 2 – 21st to 27th December

Happy Birthday and Merry Christmas!

BENICASSIM, SPAIN – PALOMARES: 306 MILES

Benicassim to Palomares, Spain.

Miles travelled so far: 1492 miles

Toll costs: NONE this week

Fuel costs: 105 euros this week

21st December Benicassim – Oliva 108 miles

We need to do some service work on the van. After a big shop at a Lidl, we head for a garage to do a full diesel fill up, yes more diesel. LPG gas for the cooking and the heating. We need to empty the grey water tank and fill up with fresh water. Today we are heading for a campsite called Euro Camping right on the beach in a town called Oliva which is not a million miles from both Valencia and Alicante. Benidorm is just around the headland going south from where we will be.

After doing all the Jess jobs and the shopping we set off on the uneventful 90-minute drive. Arriving just in time for the official opening at 3:30, we have a great pitch near all the things you need, shop, restaurant, shower, bog etc, etc. Excellent… except… 

Italian Night!

We start setting up and we are overwhelmed by the smell of cat kak! We have only put our groundsheet down on some! It gets well disguised as pebbles after it’s been in the fine gravel for a while. The whole thing has to be pulled up and ground thoroughly cleaned and swept before putting everything back. Not the way we wanted to start our 5 days stay here.

We get settled in and it’s very pleasant, just a 2-minute walk and we are on the beach, surrounded by everything we need including cats!

Italian night tonight with homemade pizza, salad and red wine, with just enough room for a mini Magnum. Well, why not. Tomorrow it’s Del’s birthday…!

22nd December Day 2 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Today is Del’s birthday. Happy birthday Del!!

Another great bike ride along the coast to the town of Oliva. Our campsite is wonderful. We have everything we need right next to us, the best pitch on the site. Short walks to the shower, shops, restaurant and the beach. Another important facility camping folk need is laundry.

Everyone has to do it, birthday or not

Today is the day. We have a good few days of laundry mounting up so what better thing to do on a birthday but to get it done.

The weather is fair so we leave it all out to dry and head off our bikes to the nearest town going south called Oliva. Whilst our campsite is a small oasis, the rest of the area is not that great. Full of half-built properties, empty properties and properties that are just closed up and have become a good surface for graffiti artists. Lots of brown barren land. We can’t figure out quite what’s happened here. Is it since the recession of 2008, where the lower and middle classes have now been squeezed out of owning property? The weather is great, the beaches are long and white so it should be a booming, pretty place. Maybe not connected but Valencia is famous for its ‘land grab‘ law, which allowed the local councils to confiscate part of your land and make you pay the taxes that would provide for the new local infrastructure built on it. There is a good write up about this here if you are ever interested. It’s pretty bad really.

We arrive at the marina in Oliva which is pleasant enough, and we head for the restaurant belonging to the Club Nautic (sailing club to you) which has a fabulous sea view in the sun. The service is excellent and we manage to choke down some local rose wine, Calamaris followed by a Fideua which is a twist on paella – instead of rice, it’s short pieces of pasta with a tonne of seafood thrown in and left to boil down. Delicious. We finish this off with a muffin and ice cream.

Full of food we cycle back to our ‘home’, which is now a bit more of a struggle. We arrive back to dried washing which is put away then off to the local campsite bar for a couple of ‘pacharan’ drinks in the late afternoon sun, which at this time the air is starting to get chilly.

23rd December Day 3 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Day 3 in our Euro Camping location, and more washing. Yes, more laundry. For the first time since we arrived at this location, the clouds have cleared and the sun is out, but there is a chill in the air. It’s also time for our daily bike exercise. Today we cycle north, weaving our way through the derelict un-kept streets. 

We have a leak in the sink drain, so we make an attempt to find a plumbing shop to buy some PTFE tape only to find nothing. Looks like the bowl will have to stay under the sink a bit longer!

From the van to the beach it’s a 30-second walk, so we take advantage of the sunshine and walk north towards Oliva, it’s great to be here, no news, no worries just us and the sea and the sand.

Late afternoon beach walks

We reminisce again as we used to sail along this part of the Med passing all of these towns we can see along the coastline. We have such great memories of our boat. We still miss her.

Dinner on board Jess and a quiet night in. Brilliant.

24th December Day 4 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Christmas Eve night is when the Spanish celebrate Christmas. ‘La noche buena’. This is when a big dinner is had and gifts are exchanged. We are here because we wanted to escape the usual trappings of a British Christmas so what shall we do today?

It’s a cool morning but after breakfast we set up outside under the awning to read and just…, well, do nothing! It’s good. The sun comes out and it warms up nicely. The Spanish have a tradition at Christmas of preparing and touring floats around the local towns and villages, usually with people dressed as Santa Claus and all that kind of thing. Today is no exception, even on the campsite, the maintenance department has used one of their small trucks, dressed up and are driving around the site, giving each camper a gift of local Valencian olive oil.

Maintenance men bearing gifts

Fantastic, what a nice surprise and gesture. Makes a change from a bottle of wine. Very useful. We are running out!

Local olive oil. Nice

We stay local today, taking in a nice long stroll along the beach again.

25th December Day 4 in Eurocamping, Oliva, Spain

Merry Christmas to you all!!

Some cards we managed to bring. Thank you.

The weather has slightly improved, still a bit on the chilly side but who cares. Today is Christmas day. We exchange gifts and open up cards from friends and family that we were able to bring along with us. We’ve done quite well, with more waiting for when we get home.

We have a big hearty breakfast and Del pops open some fizz to have with breakfast. Well, why not? It’s a very pleasant morning so we take a stroll along ‘our’ beach. It’s a lovely day now so we have taken along with some chairs, the remainder of the fizz and a couple of glasses and enjoy the rest of the bottle with the gentle waves breaking near us and the winter sun just keeping us warm enough. Brilliant. H even manages a paddle in the sea!

Back at the van and H knocks up a fantastic paella for our Christmas day lunch. it’s wonderful, helped along with a glass of cold rose.

Christmas day Paella lunch

Not the usual Christmas day, of too many presents, too much food and chocolate. Drink excluded. No TV, no sleigh bells ringing, no indigestion and no wondering what the hell this day is all about and why all the fuss! Just the two of us, in a van, in the sun and somewhere else. Magic!

26th December – Oliva to Palomares – 198 miles

Time to move on. We have spent 5 great days here at Eurocamping, but the weather is not quite what we are looking for and we are pushing south to hopefully warmer weather. Everyone here was very nice, the staff and the people staying here, which for the most part are German.

We packed up last night so all we have to do is fire up Jess and off we go.

Today we are heading for Palomares in the province of Andalucia. We make a stop at a gas station to fill up with diesel, it’s good to keep topped as you never know what will happen and the last thing you want to be doing is trying to find fuel when your plan changes unexpectedly. So keep the tank topped up when you can.

We leave the petrol station and make off down the AP-7, after about 10 minutes a white van driver is levelling up with us and pointing at our fuel door and making a locking gesture. Whoops!!!! Del forgot to shut the door that covers the diesel intake. Worse than that the cap was not on! Worse than the second set of keys were still in the cap! Del, you are a dope. We pull in at another gas station and by coincidence, the white van driver was there, so we take the opportunity to thank him. Fortunately, we could all see the funny side of it but it’s a mystery how much if any fuel got out?

Finally, we arrive at a rustic looking campsite and we choose a pitch as the office is closed. It all looks a bit… well… old and well used but it’s populated with some expensive vans from all over Europe. No matter we get in and set up. It’s perfect here. The staff are nice, yes the facilities are dated but they are clean and they all work. Perfect, what more could you ask for. We are here for 4 nights at Cuevas Del Mar. Which has a nudist area nearby. Just saying…

Tonight we dine on board, tomorrow we will see what’s here. We get a dinner time sunset.

This is real. No photo trickery

27th December Day 2 – Palomares

We wake up today to finally deep blue skies coming our way and by 10 am it’s beautiful and warm. We are about a 5-minute walk from the beach which we stroll down in the warming sun, there are lots of motorhomes along the front here and even after studying the council notice it’s unclear if it’s allowed or not (are we campers or just motorhomers?) Even though it’s warm and sunny, there is quite a strong wind blowing that creates spectacular sand clouds on the beach that get blown into the sea.

Palomares beach

We make our way back to camp for a break. Whilst reading the reviews of the camping areas Hayley notices a strange comment on one about nuclear contamination in the area dating back to the sixties, and a quick google informs us that this tiny Spanish village is famous because it had four hydrogen bombs dropped on it by accident by a US airforce plane in a mid-air collision whilst refuelling. None of them caused a nuclear explosion by sheer luck, but two of these bombs had the conventional explosives inside them detonate and scatter the plutonium like a dirty bomb. Gosh.

Time magazine described the incident as “one of the world’s worst nuclear disasters”. This happened in 1966 and some of the areas around the village of Palomares are still restricted because of radioactivity.

It’s a shocking story and one we had no idea about. You can read about the whole thing here. It’s well worth a read.

After this sobering interlude, we cycle into the nearby urbanisation, it looks like it would be quite lively in the summer. It’s also a nudist area and we see a naked man playing a saxophone on the seafront. He had a big one – it was a tenor sax. The stuff you see around here.

The rest of the afternoon is spent in the fantastic warm sun back at the van, it’s a blistering 23 degrees!

Tonight is dinner on board and we watch the first 10 minutes of a dubious Cliff Richard film (Finders Keepers) from 1966 which is based, loosely, on the terrible events we have learned about today. Coincidence?

Week 1 – 13th to 20th December

Will we make it?

EAST COWES, UK TO BENICASSIM, SPAIN – 1181 MILES

Home to Benicassim, Spain.

Miles travelled: 1181 miles

Toll costs: 90 euros

Fuel costs: 228 euros

Bottles of wine drunk: 4

Cans of beer drunk: 10

 

 

 

 

13th December – Set up stop at home

Will we, won’t we? It was at least six months ago when we decided that we would like to spend Christmas and New Year in Spain, it was all going very well, too well. A month or so earlier France wanted UK visitors to take and upload a lateral flow test along with a sworn declaration that you didn’t have Covid. No problem really, quite simple. Find a test centre, get a test and upload all the forms. What we didn’t expect was the test centre would cancel our appointment the day before departure. A few stern words with them soon brought them around to our way of thinking, even though we had already found an alternative. They agreed to pick up all of the extra costs incurred and do our test. Whew.

Covid on the move. Agian!

But what’s this? A new variant of Covid is running wild through the population, highly infectious but so far too early to know how many people will end up in hospital. Just another thing for us to add into an already stressful mix. Is there something telling us that we shouldn’t be doing this? We’ve had our negative test returned, the forms of nonsense have been uploaded to Eurotunnel. WE ARE GOING!!!

We collect Jess from storage, having already pre-loaded some stuff on her we spend a less stressful, but anxious night a mere quarter of a mile from our home in a campsite called Waverley Park. Despite the worry, we have a good nights sleep.

14th December East Cowes – Neufchâtel en Bray – 273 Miles

The alarm is loud and shrill. It’s 5:00 am. Yes, 5 in the morning. Today is a busy day. Our ferry to the mainland is at 06:40. We then need to get across southern England to Folkestone to the Eurotunnel for our 3:20 pm crossing to Calais, France.

Eurotunnel to France

Oh, and on the way to Folkestone we need to stop in Canterbury to get Hayley her booster. Why Canterbury? Good old Isle of Wight NHS couldn’t do it, like most things! So we had to find another site on the route.

The day could not have gone better. We were pushed onto an early ferry to Portsmouth. Hayley got her booster jab early and to make things even better, Eurotunnel put us on an early train meaning that we would be arriving in France in daylight hours. Perfect, better than we thought.

More potentially bad news coming from France. The new Covid variant, Omicron is causing some concern for the French now. We are getting nervous that the border with Spain may shut. We press on through France after a non-event crossing. The only item that was checked was our passports. Easy!

After a 273 mile drive and a 13 euro toll, we arrive at the peaceful town of Neufchâtel en Bray and find a spot in the lovely Aire camping Saint Claire. Once settled in we toast to our success of finally making it to France and dinner is steak, frites with a bearnaise sauce with a French red of course! All in all a bit of a rollercoaster but we are relieved to be here and we have a great night’s sleep. Whew!

15th December Neufchâtel en Bray – Issoire 379 Miles

We wake up to a cold, crisp morning. Grey skies, but dry and pleasant despite the cold temperature. It’s perfect. Hot coffee and breakfast will see us right. We had a plan to spend 5 days making our way south to the French – Spanish border, however, the news from home isn’t good and the French are making noises about possible restrictions, yes we are already here in France, but the Spanish may start making similar noises and we could end up being trapped in France. No big deal really, but our aim is to get winter sun in Spain not winter in France. There is a difference. Hayley is brilliant at finding stops en route. We always end up in excellent places for the night, she finds lots of options. We need options as we have decided to make our French stay as short as possible and to get over the border as quickly as possible.

After 379 miles of driving, 100 quid in diesel and 51 euros in motorway tolls we finally arrive at the pleasant town of Issoire.

Nightime in the French town of Issoire

The nights are now very cold. Tonight it’s zero degrees and damp. We are parked in an excellent overnight Aire along with another 5 vans all doing similar things, all wanting to be somewhere else.

Truffard. Delicious

Tonight we will eat out at a French restaurant and we find a cracker. 60 euros lighter but heavier with all the food and drink. Christmas beer, red wine, steak, duck and the local dish of Truffard which is potatoes cooked in goose fat and covered in local cheese.

What a feast we had in this lovely town that looked great for Christmas, with projections on the old buildings, Christmas trees and a local Christmas market. Wonderful. We shiver as we do a quick walk back to our home on wheels, fire up the heating and have another great night’s sleep. So far so good.

16th December Issoire – Camping l’albera –  Capmany Spain 273 miles

Today the temperature is between zero and -2. Who knows, who cares, it’s freezing cold. Del is dispatched to the local shop for pastries. Today we decided that we will break for the border as we are getting more concerned, not about the virus, but more about what governments will do. We set off via a supermarket for some supplies and fill up with diesel and set off, taking turns on our 273-mile journey to somewhere in Spain. 

The journey was amazing. We drove along the A75 south which includes a section of road that climbs to just over 1100 meters high. We drove through thick, but very thick fog and some snow, but only a bit of snow. The temperature dropped to -2 and at times became challenging, but it’s all part of the adventure as we pushed on for what felt like hours. Then suddenly the sun started to poke through and after a while revealed a beautiful blue sky with some spectacular scenery of small towns in valleys shrouded in low fog. We even took in the Millau viaduct which is a spectacle in itself, even if it does cost 13 euros! What an amazing drive.

Dinner in at Capmany

We finally cross the border at La Jonquera, a madhouse of trucks. We have never seen so many trucks. In fact, that was the one thing that we noted driving through France, the number of haulage trucks. The UK is supposed to be short. They are all here!!

Again the crossing was uneventful, no stops, no checks. Once again Hayley has found us a brilliant campsite in the town of Capmany only a couple of miles off the main motorway. It was time to stop, it had been a long tiring and expensive day. 273 miles, 75 euros in fuel and 13 in tolls. Well worth it though.

17th December 2nd day in Capmany

Our decision to get a move on was well-founded. Noises from home are that the French are indeed going to ban travel from the UK into France for holidays. You can only come to France from the UK for “Exceptional reasons”. What’s that? We made it by the skin of our teeth, a very close shave. We got into France in the nick of time. With all the trouble at the start of the trip we thought about a postponement for a week, if we had have done that then the trip would have been cancelled.

Capmany town Christmas tree by night.

We are a good day or two ahead of the original plan so we decide to stay here for another day. It’s a beautiful place, a small wine-producing area in Catalunya. We take a walk into the small town of Capmany. It’s great to be here. The weather is bright and crisp with clear blue skies and a temperature of about 12 to 14 degrees. The nights are cold, however, dropping to 2 to 4 degrees but the heating on Jess keeps us warm.

Today we get the bikes off the van. Hayley has a new one, a birthday gift from you know who. It’s a belting bike and one she well deserves.

We circle the local area, nothing too stressful but it’s good to be out and about exploring the local area, even though we get barked at by the local dogs!

Dinner tonight will be in the village of Capmany, Cal Ferrer, a lovely little place that serves local food and wine at a reasonable price. The walk home is cold but we are content and happy if that’s not too much to show off about in these times?

18th December  Capmany – Cambrils – 160 miles

Today is the day the French ban comes into force, stopping British tourists.

UK. Non…

The pictures and news of people trying to get on trains and ferries yesterday have been staggering. Considering the ban on travel is to stop the spread of Omicron, it’s a bit odd watching thousands of people cramming onto trains and boats. Someone, somewhere didn’t think that through?

We are pushing south today but we are now sticking to the plan. Our first stop is Cambrils, not too far south of Barcelona. Our stop is a campsite right by the sea.

The beach at Cambrilis

Again the weather is lovely, blue skies and the daily temp is up another degree or two from yesterday. Lovely.

19th December  Cambrils day 2

We like out here, and we could do with the rest, the days have been long and it’s nice here. There is a good cycle route from Cambrils to Salou, a total of 14 miles, 7 each way. It’s good and flat all the way. We are still lucky to have such wonderful weather with us, yes it’s a bit chilly at night but the days are just fantastic.

With the sea on our right, we head north on the cycle route to Salou. We take a short break once there, sitting on a bench looking out over the sparkling flat sea and reminiscing about our days when we used to sail along these very waters between the south of Spain to Barcelona. Now with the sea on our left, it’s back south to our home on wheels for turkey steaks, fries, salad and wine, simple but delicious after a great day.

20th December Cambrills – Benicassim – 96 miles

A couple of years ago we did a trip to Germany and we visited a place called Todtnau. Just a quick note here -the inventor of the perm hairstyle came from Todtnau. Yes really. In Todtnau they have an alpine coster which is basically a plastic car that you sit in and go down a steel track at lightning speed. It’s great fun. This is where H rediscovered her love for rollercoasters. She loves them and everywhere that we go we have to go to the nearest theme park and spend some time on some of the most terrifying rides. 

In Cambrils, we are less than a 20-minute drive from Portaventura. After some discussion and re-planning, we pack up and head back south to Portaventura so that H can get her fix of rollercoasters. It’s a great day, H completes 21 rides on some of the world-famous and most popular rides. She has a permanent grin on her face all day while Del carries her bag! Great.

By 4:30 it’s time to move on as we have a two-hour drive to our next stop in the town of Benicassim for a one night stay. It’s motorway all the way and by 7:30 we are parked up in a charming little campsite in the middle of a residential area, very peaceful and a great place to end the day.

Italy is closed…!

Our first month on Stargazer has gone well as we took our time exploring the south coast of France in the blistering heat, so hot that many people died in the heat which made national news. This month we plan to sail to near Pisa, where along the way we meet new friends, anchor for the first time and pay for a diver to fix our new, limping boat, but what a bonus, H gets to see the Monaco Grand Prix free…

Cannes, France to Rapallo, Italy

JUNE 2003

Sunday, 1st June 2003, Cannes (Day trip to Monaco)

With Del in the UK, I leave the boat at 8 in the morning to catch the 8:33am to Monaco. I can tell I’m on the right platform by the sea of red (Ferrari t-shirts). The train is packed, so much for my 1st class ticket – I end up standing on the 2nd class stairs all the way!

Monaco is a beautiful town, especially up in the old part of Monaco, with beautiful gardens.

It seemed, though, that my idea of casually standing next to the track will not happen – every bit of view of the track is fenced off, even from the hill – you have to have a ticket, and they cost hundreds of euros!

So eventually I find a bit of the hill where I can see 30m of track from half a mile away and stand and wait for the start. What a racket – forget Concorde taking off – this is the loudest thing I have ever heard, ever…

Then, just as I am about to lose interest in the dots moving around the track, somebody opens up the barrier, and we all dash it. Now I have a view of most and the track and the marina – absolutely stunning! I can’t believe I’m here watching the Monaco Grand Prix – Live!

After a while, I walk down the hill to get a better idea of the noise. Wow, and I’m standing next to the gate for the seating (trackside) when a man comes up to me and says, “Here, take this ticket. My grandchildren have gone back because they don’t like the noise – just follow me”! What…? Really?

My free 390 euro ticket….

Before I know it, I’m trackside with some earplugs and 10m from the action (3 rows from the front). I have never quite seen anything like this; the noise is immense even with earplugs. We are after the hairpin where the track forks to the pits – and we see Schumacher have a pit change. (He has been and gone before my camera was ready!).

I can’t believe my luck. I will never forget this! Or the kind man (father of the inventor of the ‘Pharmajet Injection’, who is also a sailor – from Lymington).

The Grand Prix route… Kind of…

It’s only when I return to the boat that I notice my ticket value of 390 euros…! I’m so grateful. What a nice man.

(Oh yeah, the blue and white one won!)


Monday, 2nd June 2003, Cannes

A quiet day today. I do the laundry and walk up to the local church on the hill. I go back and sat on the back of the boat and sunbathe. It’s a nice day today.

There is a traffic jam of superyachts trying to squeeze into the port – wonder where they’ve come from…? One has snagged his anchor and needs rescuing.

I get my hands dirty, oiling and cleaning my bike

Dinner tonight: Pesto on deck


Tuesday, 3rd June 2003, Cannes

I take a bike ride west out of the marina; there’s another beach – Cannes is huge, lots of shops, lots of lovely beaches. It’s so hot this afternoon that I have to shelter inside the boat and watch some films until it’s bearable outside, which is around 5 pm. Phew! It’s so hot…

Tonight, I am going to try one of those Chinese food places that have an endless counter of goodies laid out, buffet style. A staggering 10 euros for a salad, 3 spring rolls, red Thai curry and vegetable rice. A quarter litre of rosé, Bargain! With the added entertainment of a fight right outside, the police turn up and send a bloke packing. He comes back, and some undercover police turn up with nasty batons. Time for some dessert. I think the chap had lifted someone’s bag, then the victim argued with a different man. Complicated – oh well, it passes the time.


Wednesday, 4th June 2003, Cannes

I’m off to the beach this morning with my bag of essentials. I have a paddle, but it’s not quite the same on my own. I walk all the way to the next marina and back, but it’s so hot. (29 degrees C in the boat).

A new feathered friend.

There is a siren going off, like an air raid siren, all over Cannes, and it’s very loud. 15 minutes later, it stops – no idea what that is about.

I have a new friend, a seagull who stands on the pontoon near the boat and makes seagull noises occasionally. I tried to give him a bit of sliced bread, but he’s having none of it. He is, after all, a French seagull – a gourmet seagull no less.

The guy next door is giving him a bit of his lunch. I think he prefers ham and foie gras to manky old sliced white! And who can blame him? He could teach the Brighton Seagulls a thing or two.


Friday, 6th June 2003, Cannes

I’m back on the beach again today. We need more supplies on board, so I head off for an exciting trip to the local supermarket, followed by some lunch, and a sunbathe on the back of the boat. It’s so hot here, though, and I have taken to taking a siesta recently as the boat temperature is 31 degrees C in the afternoon…!!!

There is a film shoot on the pontoon, and they keep blocking our way. It’s probably someone famous. No idea who it is.


Friday, 6th June 2003, Cannes

Phew, it’s even hotter today – it’s official; according to the radio, it’s summer. (And National Day,  Sweden, of course). I’m going for a wander this morning. After a coffee, I buy some boules. We will learn to play petanque when Del gets back.

There is a baby dead shark in the marina this morning – and next to him a jellyfish (no doubt alive, unfortunately). I am beginning to wonder if our swim ladder will get a lot of use…?

Another quiet day – I want to go sailing – never has the weather been so stable! It’s very bouncy here, moored in the marina – not looking forward to tomorrow. Saturday is the bounciest day as every man and his dog break the speed limit in the harbour.

(The temperature in the shade today is 31 degrees C.)

Dinner tonight: Shark and lentils. Kidding… Steak and lentils


Saturday 7th June 2003 Cannes

Del comes back tomorrow! So it’s off to the laundry and to the supermarket.

Everything is closing early today, maybe because it’s a bank holiday weekend here – Ascension or something. I even wash the boat whilst not trying to soak the neighbours; it’s not as good as Del’s effort, but it’ll do until he gets back. It has reached 32 degrees in the shade today – I just can’t drink enough water, and when I was spraying the boat with not much on! I’ve noticed that the water is quite warm, so I could just spray it on me.

I’ve just watched a fantastic fireworks display tonight on the beach. 


Sunday 8th June 2003 Cannes

Dels back today! It’s very hot again; Del is surprised by the increase in heat since he left. The heat here is just incredible.

We treat ourselves to an expensive dinner tonight at a seafood restaurant near the beach. Lovely. We play Pétanque with the boules I bought the other day. We don’t know quite what we are doing, but I won anyway.


Monday 9th June 2003 Cannes

It’s a bank holiday in France today. Most places are shut.

We actually go out sailing today, which is nice. I have a paddle sitting on the swim deck. On the way back, we see a shark swimming in the bay. We make our way back into the marina, where the wind picks up, and I do my worst attempt at berthing yet…!. We are doing well… Not. My first attempt was spot on, but we have to come out and try again; the next time, I trash the life ring on the bow of another boat. It’s wrecked, polystyrene gouged out and the cover split wide open. Oh dear. No damage to anything else, though.

Del has an awful headache, so I am left to eat delicious veal, lentils and courgettes on my own tonight. Shame.


Tuesday 10th June 2003 Cannes – Golf Juan. 9 miles (the long way). 18.60 euros (6-night deal)

The knees are knocking this morning as we prepare to leave our berth in Cannes. H’s confidence is faltering after yesterday’s mess-up, when we just went out for a potter. But it is a success, as we leave and negotiate the exit to the marina with no problems!

We have a good sail around the local islands and then set off towards Golf Juan. We gently motor into the marina. It is quite pleasant here, and much more protected and more comfortable than Cannes. We have managed to secure a 6-night deal as Del leaves again on Thursday (until Sunday) to do a “Westlife” video at the O2 Arena.

It’s good old kit pizza night tonight!

The dinghy has been blown up, ready to play on! Thanks, Del. After dinner, we zip across to the beach in the dinghy and have a cold beer.


Wednesday 11th June 2003 – Golf Juan day 2

It’s another hot day today, which means we didn’t sleep last night as we couldn’t open the window properly because of pesky mosquitoes. One got in anyway and kept flying past our ears, so the first thing we buy today is some net for the hatch and botch a way of creating an anti-mozzy net. We’ll see how that goes later.

We do some laundry and set off for a quick sail, which is nice and refreshing as it’s much cooler on the sea. It’s lovely.

A successful boat berthing on our return! We are doing better. It takes practice. H does the steering and all the controlling of the boat into a berth, which is not easy; it’s nothing like driving a car. There is wind and water current to deal with. Del does all the rope work, which requires leaping about the boat, securing fenders and jumping on and off the boat. We watch other people berthing where it seems to be the man doing the steering and the berthing, while the woman is expected to do all the stuff that requires strength etc. We think they have it wrong.

Tonight we plan to dinghy to a restaurant on the beach, which we do, but the only one that is open is very much way out of our price range, so it’s back to the marina to haul out the dinghy before we can walk and to find a cheaper restaurant.

Diner tonight: Calamares in sauce and fruits de mar spaghetti.


Thursday 12th June 2003 – Golf Juan day 3

Del leaves again today, for another job that he’s already committed to, but we wake to news of strikes here in France, luckily not the air traffic controllers, but this time the buses and trains are not running. Luckily, the airport bus turns up..

H goes off for some shopping, but everything is closed. It’s a very hot day today.

Dinner tonight: Steak and aubergine


Friday 13th June 2003 – Golf Juan day 4

Friday 13th! Today is supposed to be a lucky day in France, so there’s a big queue at the lottery vendors. It’s also the hottest day yet at 35 degrees C in the boat with the fan on and the windows open!

We need the first engine service, so I try to book one, but no one speaks English or understands my poor French.

I’m going to walk to Vallauris tomorrow. Picasso lived there for a few years. Maybe there is an internet terminal there, because there sure ain’t one here!

Dinner tonight: Steak and veg


Saturday 14th June 2003 – Golf Juan day 5

I have tried to walk to Vallauris today, but I’ve had to give up in the stifling heat. It’s two miles up a hill and a dual carriageway – I think I’ll skip it.

I need my internet fix!


Sunday 15th June 2003 – Golf Juan day 6

Del returns today, which means it’s a cleaning day. Launder the sheets, clean the bilges, wash the boat – it’s too hot.

I actually see Dels’ plane flying over and putting its wheels down. The airport is not far from here.

He’s back – with sunglasses at last – except the sun’s gone in! Since we started, he has not had any sunglasses. The boat is white, and the sun has been strong every day, so he’s suffered a bit.

Dinner tonight: Lobster.


Monday 16th June 2003 – Golf Juan to Nice. 25.60 euros.

That’s Golf Juan done. 6 hot days there, Time to move on today. Today we are going sailing (or motoring) to Nice.

We have managed to sail a bit and with a little bit of motor while keeping an eye on the engine hours; we are due for our first 50-hour service soon, which we have to do to comply with the Volvo warranty.

We have finally arrive into Nice. The harbour has big ferries in so we feel quite small. On a second attempt, we find our pontoon opposite a stunning super yacht called “Perfect Persuasion”. We have seen her a few times pottering along the coast here.

We have our first ‘hands-free’ shower in a month, at the marina showers. We have a wet room on board Stargazer, which has a hand shower. It’s good, but it’s nice to be able to stand under a shower for a change and not have to kick out and dry out the wet room.

We have a walk along the seafront for a while. Nice has a rubble-type beach – funny, we always imagined it to have long golden sand.

Tonight we have a steak dinner before another walk. Later, we sup wine on deck, but the fumes from “Perfect Persuasion“, who are running a generator, get too much for us, so we call it a night.


Tuesday 17th June 2003 – Nice to Menton Garavan. 27.50 euros.

We have a good sail all the way to Monaco where we plan to stay. A few phone calls later we realise that it’s not going to happen, everyone is full (and it’s only 2pm). So we speed on under motor to try and secure a place at Menton Garavan – the last marina in France and we mean, literally, the border is 200m away!

We shall walk to Italy after dinner!

We have found a guy here who can do our engine service.

A very closed Italy…

Settled in we set off for a walk. It’s only a short walk to Italy! But it’s shut!!!

There is nothing here and what little is here is closed. There is nowhere to get a drink, a snack, nothing, so we have drink in a candlelit waterside place back in France.

Thanks for nothing Italy!


Wednesday 18th June 2003 – Menton Garavan day 2

H got bitten badly last night, damn mosquitoes.

We get the bikes off the boat and have a cycle around, and get back as the engineer “may arrive” at 2pm. He doesn’t turn up. It’s all very easy going… So we just sit on the back of the boat, chill out and do some paperwork.

Dinner tonight: Tagliatelle and seafood. 


Thursday 19th June 2003 – Menton Garavan day 3

Today is the day… At 9:25am our Volvo engineer arrives and services our engine. Very efficient – 2 and a half hours and he has fitted our new replacement vacuum valve as well.

We wash the boat down – the heat is too much for H, so her bikini is on and she gets a hose-down of cool water from Del during the boat wash – ahhh the relief.

We see four planes flying low over the bay and returning over the hills repeatedly. We think they are seaplanes that are scooping up seawater and dumping it on forest fires. This is worth a look, so we cycle at high speed to the beach area. They dive down quite near the beach and slide along the water, still fast, then take off – quite something to watch. Skillful flying. They’re not kidding when they warn you about this on the chart. Pity any poor boat coming around the headland!

We go for a paddle, its 9pm, and the water is still warm.


Friday 20th June 2003 – Menton Garavan to San Remo. (Porto Sole). 35.00 euros

*FRANCE TO ITALY*

It’s goodbye France – hello Italy today!

Better get the our courtesy flag ready.

Goodbye France – Hello Italy. A courtesy flag swap over.

We cross the border and the flag goes up. You can already notice the different styles of buildings even from the sea. We arrive at Port Sole – San Remo and after a hair raising experience trying to get off the windward waiting pontoon (we are being pinned on by the wind), we are piloted to our berth.

We’ve never had the honour of a pilot boat before. It’s quite exciting.

Our first attempt to park goes wrong, again. The wind is beam on (that’s the side of the boat), and we swing around when we slow down. The second attempt is ok until we swing around again and nearly gouge someone’s boat with our anchor. No damage fortunately, but almost!

Finally and thankfully, we are pulled around into place with some help from marina staff. We feel terrible. H loses all her confidence and is embarrassed at her terrible parking skills until some Swiss neighbours turn up and do exactly the same thing. So, she’s not so bad after all! Its not easy steering a boat. It can very tricky, as we are finding out.

Dinner tonight: Pasta. (Well we are in Italy, which is now open!)


Saturday 21st June 2003 – San Remo Day 2

A quiet day today after another bad nights sleep. H’s feet still look like elephant’s feet after being bitten a couple of days ago by some rather aggressive mosquitoes.

Del is keen to wash the hull of the boat today, so we get him into the dinghy so he can reach it all, while H has him on a tether back on the boat. That’s it! I’ve had it with these dinghy name letters, there’s only two left – we pull them off.

Diner tonight: Pizza

Sunday 22nd June 2003 – San Remo to Loano 1st night free! 32 miles


FUEL FILL-UP: 40 euros

We are up early this morning and slip from our berth at 09:10am. We intend to go to Alessia, 24nm away. There is no wind but the sea still has quite a swell. We motor all the way and park up in Alessia to get fuel. The marina is full tonight. Oh no, what are we going to do…?

The next marina along is Loano. We get a berth here where the first night is free! We soon learn why. Maybe because it’s a bit of a building site, they are doubling the size of the marina. We are getting low on provisions, nowhere is open, looks like another meal out. How ostentatious of us.

The Swiss are here today, the ones we saw yesterday making a dog’s dinner of their parking as we did. They see us and wave us over to berth up next to them.

Del has made friends by sorting everyone’s electric and water out for them – and I thought we were the inexperienced ones. We have quite a collection of water and electricity adapters, ready for any eventuality.

We are just relaxing on the back of our boat when suddenly we see a British couple arrive on a rather sleek sailing boat, approaching the pontoon rather fast, 3 boats down from us. We jump off and help them out as they are approaching the pontoon with speed so we help slow them down and take their lines to secure them. We do some introductions, and shake hands with Sue and Stanley. They are not an old couple, but they are no spring chickens. Stanley looks rather sporty in his wide open neck tie-dye t-shirt and wrap around sunglasses. They’re a nice couple, and we end up chatting with them for a while before leaving them to it and going back to ours.


Monday 23rd June 2003  – Loano Day 2

We look out of the windows this moring to find that everyone has departed except us and the British boat with Sue and Stanley on. On the pontoon get talking to them and find that they are going the same way as us. We have decided to carry on around and down until Pisa.

It’s another warm day so we invite Sue and Stanley for drinks on the boat, we learn from them a good idea – that a simple cheap parasol fits perfectly into the hole that’s in the middle of the winches, which will then give you good shade at sea and in a marina. What a great idea…, so it’s off to the town to buy a snazzy blue and white one.

Today it is two years exactly that Del proposed to H, so to celebrate (or commiserate), we have a drop of Italian fizz on the bow of Stargazer. Cheers..!

Dinner tonight: Pork and lentils

After Stanley and Sue have invited us to drinks at a nearby bar. Very nice of them. We seem to enjoy each others company, with similar interests and humor. They are from Yorkshire and have been sailing for a while. The have an X-Yacht 332, which we are invited to have a nosy around. It’s a lovely boat. A fast boat. Probably too fast for us.

It’s 12:30 by the time we say goodnight, but we have agreed to get up early and sail to the next stop along the coast, Varrazze.


Tuesday 24th June 2003 – Loano to Varazze. 19 miles. 28 euros

It’s 9:00am. We have a good wind today to get to Varazze, although Sue and Stanley burn us off in their sports yacht which is more of a racer than ours, which is more like a caravan at sea.

We end up reefing our sails in, but still getting 6.5 knots out of her. Sue and Stanley turn back a few times to let us catch up, and to see that we are alright. Bless.

There are quite large waves hitting us beam on and we are not far away from dipping the toe-rail in the water! We get our first glimpse of dolphins on this trip! Six of them, quite small, but beautiful, surfacing and diving together, but they don’t stay long and soon disappear.

We arrive into Varazze together. It’s very shallow here, just 20cm left under the keel in some parts. We are half expecting ‘Harve’, Sue and Stanleys boat, to ground with her deeper keel, but they make it in, and we get berthed. The berth is quite bouncy, but definitely calmer than the ride we had getting here. 

There is nothing here except lumps of concrete and diggers.


Wednesday 25th June 2003 – Varazze to Genoa. 21 miles. 30 euros

We have a late sail today, 11am as we only have a short hop to Arenzeno. Del calls ahead in his best Italian and reserves our spaces before slipping from the berth and we are off.

The sea has calmed down a bit from yesterday, but we still get a good wind in patches. We break our record for shallowed depth yet! 10cm under the keel! as we are coming out of Varazze.

We arrive at Arenzano but we are told there is no space! Del has an argument with the marina guy (a different one from this morning), but to no avail, so we decide to press on to Genoa another which is another 10 miles (more by the time we have tacked our way there!)

A helping hand from the locals as we limp into our berth

This Marina is like a maze! H is following the plan on the chart, but thinking of turning around as the deeper we get inside the more ferries we are having to negotiate with, but we find our berths eventually and get piloted in. We have noticed that the rudder is pulling hard to the right but carry on as there is nothing we can do about it right now. So we bow in to turn around and back into the berth, as we go into reverse the engine vibrates and packs up!

We must have had something around our rudder after all, because now it’s wrapped around prop! We have to be towed into our berth. This could potentially cost..

Tomorrow a diver is coming by to investigate what’s happened to our rudder, prop or both…

Sue and Stanley take us to dinner to console us. We have really bonded in just a short amount of time, enjoying their friendship and hospitality.


Thursday 26th June 2003 – Genoa. Day 2

There is a change of plan today with the diver. He can’t make it today, but has promised tomorrow. Very Italian…There is a beer festival being set up here for the weekend. Should be interesting. Noisy?

Tonight we are having Sue and Stanley around for dinner, but decide to simplify it to pasta, as cooking a big meal for 4 in our little galley might be a struggle.

We’ve had a good night, plenty to eat, drink with a few stories and laughs.


Friday 27th June 2003 – Genoa. Day 3

We get up at 9 am feeling a bit foggy, after last night’s drinking on our boat. We are expecting the diver anytime this morning. This being Italy though, the diver finally arrives at 1 pm, and spends about two minutes underwater.

We feel like we are getting value for money though, as he has flippers, air tanks, the whole works. The water stinks here, rather him than us.

After some time in the water, he pulls out a huge blue bin bag from our prop, we take some pictures and ten minutes later he’s gone and we’re 50 euros lighter.

We take a look around ‘Neptune’, a huge galleon – used as a set for the film “Pirates”. There is a very sweet parrot here (blue and yellow) who lives on a boat nearby, he sits on the shrouds and squawks and travels on a perch on his owners ‘Go-Ped’.

Sue and Stanley have invited us to dinner tonight on their boat. Beef stroganoff  – absolutely delicious!


Saturday 28th June 2003 – Genoa. Day 4 

After breakfast and later in the morning we go for a walk into Genoa. It’s a bit scruffy really, but after more walking around we eventually find some nice bits. It’s not too bad after all.

Stargazer needs a clean, so after our walk we set about cleaning the decks, cockpit and the inside. H is quite an expert at cleaning the toilet!

Diner tonight: Peppers, potatoes and aubergines etc.

We can hear the music starting up at the beer festival where a band is playing. We set off and see how it is. The band are quite god so we have a beer or two, but after an hour the wind picks up and the lightning is flashing like a strobe light. A storm is brewing… The poor band are ‘washed‘ off stage as it proceeds to pour down – a proper rainstorm. Very heavy rain.


Sunday 29th June 2003 – Genoa to Rapallo (anchorage) 17 miles. 0 euros

The air this morning is a lot fresher after the storm last night. We depart Genoa at 9am but quickly find, by phoning ahead, that there are no spaces for us at any of the marinas ahead. So we decide that we will try our first go at anchoring. Gulp…!

While on route we try to empty our holding tank but find that it is blocked and nothing will shift it. The holding tank is a large tank at the back of the boat which is the “black water” tank. We shall leave it at that, but it’s blocked. This could be a problem.

Both boats arrive near Portofino at an anchorage and for the first time on Stargazer we actually anchor! In 10 meters – quite deep.

Sue and Stanley come over on their dinghy, and we all have a swim. It’s lovely and warm as we swim around our boat. Fabulous…

Out swimming in Portofino

Later in the day, however, after a failed attempt to get to shore in the dinghy, we decide that the sea is kicking up a bit, the boats are getting tossed about a bit, so we move to a more protected anchorage inside the breakwater of Rapallo. This is gorgeous, peacefully anchored – with a lovely Italian town as a backdrop.

Diner tonight: Pesto (with a fantastic sunset.)

We are on the back of our boat, Sue and Stanley are on the back of theirs as we gently bob up and down in the early evening light. Suddenly, to finish off a lovely day and night, Stanley starts to plays his pan pipes, the gentle music drifts over from their boat. Nice. Didn’t know he played the pan pipes… Don’t know anyone else that does, so thats a first. The Mediterranean dream.

It gets better. The holding tank has fixed itself!


Monday 30th June 2003 – Rapallo anchorage

We had a very peaceful night at anchor last night.

We need some provisions so we hop across in the dinghy to the marina. This place is expensive – good job we’re not paying a mooring fee here!

After lunch, we potter back round to Portofino where we had the swim yesterday. We dinghy across to shore to get ice-creams and then back to the boat before they melt.

We pull up our anchor and go far a little sail, it’s a lovely day. After a while we go back to our last anchor location in Rapallo to settle in again for the night again. After a bit of dragging of the anchor, it finally bites. There is a force 7 wind forecast for tomorrow with no time given, so we lay a second anchor just to be sure.

For dinner tonight we dinghy ashore with Sue and Stanley and have pizzas. Excellent pizzas though.

On the way back to the boat after dinner, we are aware of a building swell of the sea, and once at the boat it is a bit bumpy. Could be an interesting night tonight, trying to sleep. The wind builds some more, but then drops to nothing, so we turn in. It’s still a little ‘roly poly’. We can’t sleep. We are rolling back and forwards on the bed, it is quite uncomfortable. Nothing like last night.


WOW…! She’s Beautiful…!

Stargazer (3) – Our first day…

After months of planning, the time has finally arrived when we are brought together with Stargazer, our beautiful 32′ sailboat. The first month of our new adventure sees us attempting to berth our brand new boat for the first time on our own and being wind-bound on our first stop on an island in the south of France, before finally making it to Cannes.

Port Napoleon – Cannes

MAY 2003

H started to (badly) draw small pictures of our time on the boat. These she used to draw in pencil in the diary, not every day, but most days. We have included them here for your amusement.

Sunday, May 11th 2003 – Cheshire to Nice

Paris by air… Kind of…

Well, today is the day, it’s finally arrived. We are packed, and we depart from Liverpool Airport with 5 bags! Destination Nice. Our baggage is well overweight! We will stay in the Excelsior Hotel in Nice tonight.

Flew over Paris on the way! Saw Notre Dame and the Seine – Ah Paris, c’est belle.


Monday 12th May 2003

Travel on SNCF 1st class, to the town of Arles (not Ales!! We made that mistake by getting on the wrong train!) and H has her first French conversation with two nice ladies sitting opposite us.

We get a cab to the middle of nowhere – Le Sambuc. Hotel ‘Longo Mai’. The only thing open in town is one bar, so we have a drink there. We found this place on the internet, can you believe? (Yes, back in 2003, finding things on the internet was completely different from what it is in 2026.)

The frogs (the small amphibian thing with long legs that sits in ponds, not the people) are noisy tonight – what a racket! It must be all the paddy fields. (They grow Camargue rice here.)


Tuesday 13th May 2003 Port Napoleon – Free berthing for 2 weeks

TODAY IS THE BIG DAY!

We get packed up at 8:30 am and leave the hotel to travel to the boat by cab and ferry and on to Port Napoleon, where our new boat has been delivered to and commissioned by our UK agent. We arrive at the marina and do the short walk from the entrance to the pontoon, our hearts racing at what we are about to see and do. – There she is! She looks beautiful, and she’s ours.

Our brand new boat is sitting there in the water, gently bobbing about, tethered to the pontoon. What a sight. Our heart does swell with pride that all the months of planning and hard work, being apart for weeks on end, have finally come to this. No house, no jobs, just a flat in Tenerife and a beautiful boat in the Med ready for our adventure…

Steve and Chris are the two guys from the UK who will hand the boat over to us. They take us out on a short sail. We are nervous as hell as we stand in the cockpit and look up at the height of the mast and the size of the sails. The Pippin 20 was tiny compared to this. We must be mad…

Very soon, our driver Lee from ‘Transriviera’, a transport company, delivers our stuff for the boat from the UK! It’s chaos as we end up with a mountain of marine stuff from cushions, plates, buoys, life jackets, outboard motors and a dinghy, all manner of stuff that we will need to make our one year aboard comfortable and safe.

12 boxes of stuff, 2 anchors, a guitar, cushions, 2 bikes, poles, etc all over the pontoon. We get two free weeks here to get ourselves sorted out.

We all toast ‘Stargazer’ with some champagne before Lee, Steve and Chris leave us alone. We get our first night on the boat with our blankets and perfectly ironed bedding.

The chef at work on our first dinner aboard

Dinner tonight: Pasta and sauce with peppers.


Wednesday 14th May 2003 Port Napoleon

H building a model train gift for her good friend

Our first morning after a really windy night on board Stargazer, it’s still windy as we try out our new bikes and cycle to the nearby town of Port St. Louis. The bikes will be lashed to the side of the boat on the deck. It will be interesting to see how we do with that at sea. We have seen many boats do it, so….

Back at Stargazer, we apply her graphics, her name and her SSR number, attach flags and get her ready for the sea. A quiet day pottering around on the boat, exploring her many cupboards and storage spaces. It’s all very exciting.

Dinner tonight: Local sausage with potatoes.


Thursday 15th May 2003 Port Napoleon

We wake up today to much less wind; it’s dropped significantly, so we decide to take her out to sea on our own. Nervously!

Once we are clear of the marina entrance, we get the sails up, but there is no wind. We are going nowhere under sail. We get the engine back on and make our way back to the marina. We have tried out the GPS, the autopilot and all her toys. H does her first berthing of our new boat, Del is on deck with lines ready, and she does a perfect berthing, backed in. It’s easier that way around to get in and off the boat.

Dinner tonight: Salmon Tagliatelle


Friday 16th May 2003 Port Napoleon

Her new flashy spray dodgers

It’s a nice day today, so we get the spray dodgers attached, and Del washes her. She gleams in the sunlight and looks fabulous.

We are staying in the marina today, so it’s back on the bikes and cycle into town for some essentials, a baguette and wine!

Today, we mount H’s brass clock that she was presented with when she left ‘This Morning‘. It’s mounted in the cabin inside all the time. It looks great.

Dinner tonight: Pesto pasta


Saturday 17th May 2003 Port Napoleon

It’s raining this morning! But not for long. We have a play around with our tender, a small dinghy with an outboard motor and emergency oars. Who needs the gym?

We have been here almost a full week now in Port Napoleon. We can stay another week if we want, but we have done all we can. We think we are ready to set off, so we lash up the boat for our departure tomorrow to Ile du Frioul (Port du Frioul), bikes, tender, and outboard have all been tried and tested. Let’s go!

Dinner tonight: Steak, mushrooms and courgettes.


Sunday 18th May 2003 Port Napoleon to Pt du Frioul. 21 nautical miles(NM) (18 euros)

We will now keep track of our distances each day and the cost of our marina stays.

It’s a lovely day for our first proper sail to our first destination. A light breakfast, and we set sail at 10 am. The wind is perfect for our first day at sea, we get full sail up, which looks massive, but we soon get used to it, and we are moving along at 7 knots and heeling. She feels fantastic!

H gets her bikini on for the first time…!

PORT DU FRIOUL

The wind has picked up quite a bit en route, but we manage our first ‘med mooring’ in a gusty wind, which didn’t go quite well the first time. On the second attempt, we get it right, with a little bit of help from another sailor.

Dinner out tonight as we feel flush; however, we did get stung for 50 euros by the restaurant. We are not feeling so flushed now, but rather drained!

We meet our first 4-legged friend, a rather sweet black Labrador who insists on following us. Not sure if he’s a stray or belongs to someone, but he seems to like us.

Once we are back at the boat, with the wind slightly down in strength, we can hear a noise under the boat. It sounds like chains moving about in the water. A mystery, as we didn’t hear it in Port Napoleon.


Monday 19th May 2003 Port du Frioul

Wow… We wake up this morning to strong winds. It’s howling through the mast, so we decide to stay for a couple of days as the weather forecast is not so good. Force 7-8. Not good, that, not for us newbies anyway.

We get the bikes off the boat and set off for a good cycle up to some local ruins.

The views are fantastic with some pretty bays around the island. Del got stung again. (By an insect, not a restaurant).

H’s fabulous kit pizza

Today it’s ‘kit pizza’. It was good. (Kit pizza is a pizza base that is pre-made and kept in the chiller at the shops.

You spread it out, put your own toppings on and stick it in the oven. Smashing.)

The wind has started blowing really hard now, and with heavy rain, so halfway through the film “Jackie Brown”, we get kitted up and brave the weather to make sure her lines are tied up good and proper. How grim!

With the boat secured, we go to bed listening to the wind and the rain.


Tuesday 20th May 2003 Port du Frioul

We have some neighbours moored next to us. A charter boat of Germans who tell us that the winds are building to force 11, one off hurricane strength. We feel a bit sorry for them, really, as they have chartered a boat for a week and it looks like they will be stuck here in a windy Port du Frioul.

We put some more ropes on our boat as the wind is snatching against her cleats, and it sounds terrible. We have 7 ropes in total, securing the boat.

Not much to do today, so we take walks on the small island, drink beer, read and help some distressed French sailors with their boat.

The seagulls enjoy the wind here…

There is a supermarket here; it’s not ideal, but we have plenty of supplies for now. There are more strong winds due tomorrow. You can never have enough rope. We watch the seagulls enjoying the wind. They are a bit mad seagulls.

It will be a noisy night tonight.

Dinner tonight: Chorizo, potatoes, onion and peppers. All cooked up together. Proper boat food.


Wednesday 21st May 2003 Port du Frioul

This morning, the wind is a gale force 8 and has been like that all night, even with the seven lines we are listing hard over in gusts.

Fed up with the noise – the noise of wind can get on your nerves after a while – we decide we can’t take it anymore and take the ferry to Marseille.

We visit the church on the hill. ‘Notre Dame de Grande’, which is quite a hike, the wind whistles through the church eerily.

We have a spot of lunch and walk around the town before catching the ferry back to Stargazer.

Rough crossing to Marseille for a day out.

The ferry back is quite a ride. The strong wind has whipped up the sea, and it’s rough.

Massive rollers, people are screaming on the boat, this is the biggest sea we’ve ever been on!

The wind is now really fierce; we are heeling in our berth, and the boat is creaking and cracking on her lines; in fact, it’s that bad that Del ends up with his dinner and wine on his lap and all over the seat, and this is in the harbour! It will be another long, grim night. Too worrying to concentrate. The hours tick by slowly.

An interesting first week aboard.


Thursday 22nd May 2003 Port du Frioul

After many sleepless nights, we wake up to a calm day, at last. The forecast is for a force 6, decreasing to 4 tomorrow. We decide to spend another night because we are late getting up today. We are tired. So it’s off for a walk up to the local fort.

While we are up there, the wind starts to build again (Del gets seagull poo on his clean t-shirt). Back down on the boat, the wind quickly changes again to a force 9, and the water is very choppy. After asking for help, we decide to try to make for the corner of the marina for a bit of peace. We are very exposed where we are; we are getting the full force of the wind and the sea.

No wind protection as our boat strains against a force 9.

We are doing this move across the marina in a force 9. A French guy very kindly offers to helm while we do the ropes. All this while the boat heels and spray is flying off the water, and H now has stomach cramps! We make it to safety, and the boat is more stable, though the wind is still violent over here. When is it going to stop!?

Our new wind indicator has had enough of the wind and packs up! Great!

Dinner tonight: Pesto


Friday, 23rd May 2003, Port du Frioul to Bandol. 20 NM (15 euros)

Today there is no wind…!

After breakfast on the deck, in the heat, we cast off and set sail for Bandol. We have to motor most of the way as the wind has dropped. It seems it’s feast or famine with the wind around here.

The letters are falling off the dinghy…

Another ‘Med mooring’ in Bandol, this one slightly smoother with only half the amount of shouting at each as the last one. We think we are getting the hang of this! The marina and town are nice, 15.50 euros for the night, excellent.

After a rather large dinner of chicken, garlic, courgettes, onions and potatoes.

We have a zip around on the dinghy and even out into the bay – what fun! The letters of the name are starting to fall off the dighy!


Saturday, 24th May 2003, Bandol

Wake up to a little bit of wind; the boat is hitting the pontoon. We’re a bit scared about the wind, so we stay another day. Sailors being scared of wind… Is that good or bad? After we pay for the night, the wind settles down, and it turns into a rather lovely day.

Everyone has to do it…

We now need to do some laundry, so we spend a few hours getting that done. Everyone has to do it.

Once the laundry has been done and lunch has been had, we fall asleep in the cockpit under the afternoon sun to be woken by customs men wanting to see documents.

We eat out tonight. Well, it is Saturday. Del has moules, H has pork and lentils

Toulon tomorrow. Hopefully.


Sunday, 25th May 2003, Bandol to Port de Hyères. 28 NM

We set sail for Toulon in a very swelly sea. The storms have gone, leaving us with a rather large rolling sea, with swells that are about 2m high. STARGAZER is surfing, and it is quite challenging to weather them. By the time we reach Toulon, the sea has calmed, and we decide to push on as it’s still early. 

We decide to move on to a realistic destination of Port de Hyères. We arrive at 4:30 after our longest sail yet. The capitainerie directed us to berth 1353. After a hunt around, we find it, it is the width of the boat with an inch to spare!

A very tight squeeze indeed

A discussion breaks out on board along the lines of ‘you think I’m backing the boat into that?’, but H does it; we are that close that the bikes are catching either side of the other boats. We get covered in chain gunk.

Dinner tonight: Pork, lentils and mushrooms on board.


Monday, 26th May 2003, Port de Hyères. 13.10 euros

Despite going to bed with no wind, we are woken up by the sound of the boat hitting the concrete block of the pontoon; a vicious wind has blown up again, and it looks like, yet again, our front mooring line isn’t tight enough. So we kit up and go outside. It’s 3:40 am and there is a force 8 wind blowing, rain and lightning. (This isn’t how we imagined Med cruising!)

Kitted out for a storm

We retire to bed, then 20 minutes later, H is back on deck again, moving fenders around the boat. Nice.

The weather forecasters have chickened out of forecasting tomorrow’s weather, so who knows what will happen. We want to push on to Lavandou, just 19 miles away, but the sea is moderate with strong howling winds.

Dinner tonight: Gnocchi and sauce, salad with our 2 euro rosé wine.


Tuesday, 27th May 2003, Port de Hyères to Le Lavandou. 14 NM 22.50 euros

We set off today for Le Lavandou. It seems like there’s either too much wind or none at all, and today is the latter, so we try to sail for a while but abandon it for the motor.

We arrive at Le Lavandou at lunchtime, so we tie up for an hour or so until the capitainerie office opens. The French like their long lunches!

We are allocated a berth, but it’s our worst parking attempt yet, very near a bridge with no control in reverse and hitting a stray chain on our keel (we think). Despite all this, the place is beautiful and charming – lovely shops, a clean marina, and people are playing petanque. The nicest place yet.

Watch out… Nasty…

We get a chicken from a takeaway called “Poulet à Go-Go” and have a big chicken feast on board. After dinner, we take a walk on the beach, but watch for those jellyfish!

Our first proper sighting of scary ones, that we saw this morning on the way here – they are the sailing type of jellyfish, close hauling across our stern!


Wednesday, 28th May 2003, Le Lavandou to St. Tropez. 25 NM. 25 euros

A nice morning as we set off from Le Lavandou at 11 after some engine checks. The sea is like a mirror, and the sunshine is hazy. Again, we have to motor most of the way and don’t pick up any wind until we round the headland near St. Tropez, where we achieve our fastest speed under sail yet – 6.5 knots.

We arrive at St. Tropez, and after a couple of attempts to find a space, we get one. Our first impressions aren’t good; the marina is a bit tatty and expensive. What do people see in this place?

Our first boat sunset…

However, after dinner we head into town and have a look around; it’s actually very pretty with little back-street restaurants all lit up.

Sunset on the back

On the big harbour wall, there are some of the biggest luxury boats we’ve ever seen (most with British flags).

It’s a nice evening as we watch the sun go down.

Dinner tonight: Sausages and potatoes. 


Thursday, 29th May 2003, St. Tropez to Cannes. 25 NM. 23 euros

It’s quite warm this morning. After a morning walk in the heat, we set sail for Cannes, same old story with the wind – There is none… Good job, we topped up with diesel in Lavandou.

We arrive at Cannes hoping we can get a place; we’ve heard that it can get pretty busy – but we do; we are lucky. Some of our monster yacht friends are here from St. Tropez. We have seen the boat we want (apart from this one and Pippin, of course). – It’s called ‘No Escape’ – it has Dutch owners and is beautiful! The town is still in the process of packing up the film festival, even though it was 4 days ago.

Our plan is to head for Antibes. On chatting to some British Neighbours, we begin to think if our plan to sail blindly there and hope they have a place for 10 days might be a bit optimistic, so we ask here in Cannes if they have a place for 10 days – no is the answer.

Better get phoning round tomorrow! Del leaves for England for a pre-booked job on Saturday.

Dinner is a meal out, and H has an enormous plate of calamari. Del has a calzone.

After dinner, we have a walk along the famous promenade here – Cannes is quite beautiful.


Friday, 30th May 2003, Cannes. 18 euros a day (10-day deal)

We set about phoning around every marina in the area, which all brings a resolute ‘non’. Oh dear. H may have to move the boat on her own? – It’s bad enough when there are two of us!

After going to the marina office and pleading with them, Del finds out there is a space – we just have to move berths. Phew!.

So H will be stranded in Cannes for 10 days. Ha! Ha! What a place to be stranded in. Cannes in the summer. We have a quick sail, re-park, and dine in the cockpit.

Dinner tonight: Steak & lentils with garlic mushrooms.


Saturday, 31st May 2003, Cannes

Del leaves for the UK today – Oh no! We have quit work, but he is honouring jobs he was asked to do before we dreamt up this crazy plan.

Up early at 7 to get the 8 o’clock airport bus. H sees him off, then walks to the station to get a train ticket for tomorrow. She is going to Monaco to see the Grand Prix! Wow!

Back at the boat, she just chills out, sunbathes and reads etc., and watches the boats go in and out. Maybe we aren’t the worst at berthing a boat after all. A boat comes next door and actually hits our hull! Wood on fibreglass, no damage though.

No Escape, our favourite boat, leaves – probably on the way to Monaco too…

H does wonder if she is being foolishly optimistic about being able to:

1. Get a seat on the train.

2. Get even close enough to see any of the track tomorrow.

Poor old Del is in Luton, wish he was here with me in the sun watching the superyachts etc. He likes that.


Time for some training…

MARCH 2003

Sunday 9th March 2003 Handforth – Portsmouth

H starts her Day Skipper course after a 6-hour trip to Portsmouth Haslar Marina. Well, someone has to be qualified for this boat adventure

She checks in on the boat. 3 other students are doing different courses at the same time: a girl called Cag with her other half, Nick doing competent crew, and Phil doing his yachtmaster, plus Andy, our instructor, 5 of us on a Bavaria 37.


Monday 10th March 2003 Portsmouth to Cowes

We set sail to Cowes after a familiarisation in the harbour. H will navigate there. We get there OK. She is very proud to be sailing into Cowes at last. We tie up on the Thetus pontoon and have a heavy night pub crawling…! We need it

H has had too much to drink…!


Tuesday 11th March 2003 Cowes to Lymington

More practice. Tying up in Lymington to the waiting pontoon not connected to shore, so it’s out with the dinghy, and Cag rows us all to the pub. More drinking and pool. Andy tells Phil not to do his Yachtmaster – he isn’t ready. Oh dear…

A drunken row in the tender back to the boat.


Wednesday 12th March 2003 Lymington – round the island – Cowes River Medina

We leave Lymington under my navigation with 2m under the keel for a sail around the Isle of Wight. It starts fine, but by the time we reach St Catherine’s Point the wind has built and by Shanklin it’s a force 7 (touching 8), and Cag is throwing up over the leeward rail every 20 mins. Round the Nab tower and dodging the ferries, we re-enter the Solent and head for Cowes River Medina. 

Having recovered, we all take long-needed showers and hit the pub again (The Folly Inn). Andy teaches me how to play darts, but we can’t keep up with him, so we turn in at 11 pm. Andy turns in many hours later.

Saw the Kingfisher yacht today motoring past Cowes. The Ellen Macather boat…


Thursday 13th March 2003, Cowes to Portsmouth

More practice and the dreaded ‘picking up a mooring buoy under sail’, or rather “Man over board“.

We anchor in the afternoon, a few miles off Portsmouth. The sun sets over the Solent – spectacular! When it’s dark, we set off – this is my night sail – I am to navigate us using lights. The only problem is that it’s like Blackpool illuminations round here. There are buoys flashing, forts flashing, loads of boats, ferries and hovercrafts, and the shoreline is bright too.

We get there ok but are pulled up by the water police – our nav lights at the front are broken.

More drinking in the ‘Lightship’ at Haslar. Amount spent on drinks this week – £50.


Friday 14th March 2003 Portsmouth to near Birmingham

Phil leaves early, and we practice man overboard again in the harbour.

A large aircraft carrier (are there any small ones?) comes in with the sailors lining the deck, followed by 2 jet fighters flying over low. We are told we have all passed; we wash the boat, swap phone numbers and depart.

I am on my way, via Basingstoke, to a mystery location near Birmingham. Many hours later, I turn up at a lovely hotel. (I am still scruffy and have a sleeping bag in tow!) Del is here, at last, after 7 weeks away in Australia and New Zealand working. We have a lovely evening.

I am now ICC qualified and ready for the Med…!


Here it comes… The big move…

FEBRUARY 2003

Thursday 6th February 2003

The day has finally arrived. The big move. H is left to start the pre-pack, ready for the main one tomorrow. The removal guys are here, and it takes 3-hours to pack cutlery, plates, pictures and all manner of things that we have. The house is in complete disarray. With Del in Australia and H packing, there is no time to fully comprehend and appreciate what’s happening. We are at the point of no return, however. The house is sold, and the jobs ended. We can only look ahead. Colin is looking confused. Poor thing. His home, too, is being dismantled.


Friday 7th February 2003 Harrow (Del in Sydney)

The house sale completion has happened…! The house is now sold…!

The same removal guys from yesterday are here packing with H and her Mum and Dad while she runs around to check that all the boat bits that we have bought ready to go to the new boat are still all together in one place and haven’t been packed in the removal van.

Colin is not too happy today as he gets locked in our now empty bedroom (which actually looks smaller than before). He has to be kept in; we don’t want him ending up in a packing case.

Our neighbours from across the road, Gloria and Martin, have come over and are in tears at H and Colin leaving – bless. They loved Colin and used to look after him when we were both away on trips or at work. They were reliable, nice neighbours. We’ll miss them.

1:30 pm – Domino’s pizzas in the now empty lounge on the floor. The removal men have left, and we will have to soon. We have had to drug Colin with some Valium laced tuna for the long drive up to Handforth and H’s parents’ house – he seems to enjoy it.

2 pm – H is finally closing the door on 30 Harley Crescent, Harrow, for the last time – with no time to spare as H watches the truck drive away to store all our belongings until we don’t know when…

Meanwhile, the two cars, ours and H’s parents’, are overladen with all the stuff that all has to fit on our boat, which will be happening very soon. (All except Mum, Dad and Colin, of course.)

5 long hours later (RAC centre M6 usual problems!) – we arrive in Handforth, back to where H spent most of her childhood. We are so grateful to her mum and dad for putting us up and helping us to store all the new boat things in their home until we need them in May.


Saturday 8th February 2003 Handforth

Colin is exploring his new home today and wants to go out of course.


Sunday 9th February 2003 Handforth to London

H is getting ready today as she will leave Cheshire to start her last week of work at This Morning! She will be staying with some good friends of ours in Pinner, Sally and Luis. Again, wonderful people who are helping us during this transition.


Monday 9th February 2003

LAST WEEK AT WORK..!


Tuesday 11th February 2003 London (Del in Melbourne)

H has acquired a ‘cold from hell’ probably off Luis and Sally’s kids. She has her last Spanish lesson at Harrow College.


Thursday 13th February 2003 London (Del in Canberra)

H’s penultimate day at work. The lighting guys she works with take her out for a Thai meal! Yum. This is followed by a visit to a dodgy pub/club, The Queen Anne, later on, this involves putting 50p’s in pint pots. Money towards the stripper! This is the perfect night out for the sparks from work, not so much for H, but quite an education. Lovely guys who always had H’s back at work. They’ll be missed.


Friday 14th February 2003

It has finally arrived. The Last day!

Philip H, a work friend of H’s, turns up late for work today, having forgotten to go home from last night’s do – tales of a missing wallet and prostitute (talking to only, you understand).

H is keeping a constant lookout for roaming makeover cameras. This is a regular thing at This Morning that they like to spring on the crew. They like to pounce out, pin you down and do a makeover live on air. Their idea of ‘fun’ There aren’t any. Thank God…!

12:30 – Philip Schofield and Fern Britton have made H a film that they show her on the studio floor. Such a nice touch from two lovely people. She is presented with a brass clock for the boat, flowers and champagne.

There is a little speech, and it’s off to the Pizza Express (via the make-up room for cocktails and a visit to the pub).

7 pm – It’s time to leave everyone to catch a train from Euston back to Cheshire. Very sad. Very sad indeed.

Back ‘home‘ in Cheshire. It’s late.


Friday 21st February 2003

Colin has been here in Cheshire for a week tomorrow. It’s been decided to let him out and fit a cat flap.

At about 4 pm, excited or frightened by it all, Colin runs past H to go out again; however, he is not to be seen again that night!

We drive and walk around the neighbourhood constantly looking for him – no sign…!


Saturday 22nd February 2003

Still no sign of Colin the cat this morning. We print some leaflets offering a £50 reward and post 500 of them around the estate! H and her dad walk around the estate, desperately looking for Colin. Where could he possibly be?

7 pm – Finally, a neighbour phones saying she has Colin. Thank god. He is so precious to us, and to lose him now would be devastating.

We pick him up in the car – he’s very unhappy, yowling and carrying on. The lady at Irwin Drive, however, is very pleased with her £50!


Sunday 23rd February 2003

Colin isn’t that bothered about going out today. He scared himself by getting lost even though he was only a mere 2 roads away. Daft.


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